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Deep waters

Kirchlengern is a small town in eastern Westphalia. We spent a weekend in the countryside near it with friends. It was a perfect spring weekend, cool and sunny, with puffy clouds. Now and then they would gather in promise of rain, but then would scatter again to let us see the blue sky. “It’s perfect for a walk,” The Family said late in the afternoon, and everyone agreed. So we walked past the last houses, and past meadows full of buttercups and late daisies to the stream nearby. It’s called Ostbach, and it drains into the Else, which joins the Werre, which falls into the Weser, which flows into the North Sea.

Ostbach at Kirchlengern

We crossed a bridge over it. The river is shallow under it, strewn with rocks. Looking at the quick flowing water, I guessed that it would be deeper and broader upstream. That was the way we walked. The river floods now and then, so houses are built further away, leaving a lot of moist land to turn into meadows. The result is beautiful. I took a few photos: I’d not seen a spring day like this for a long time. I took my phone out of my pocket to take a few shots. In places like this, you don’t even have to think about structuring your photos. Depth arises naturally from perspective and scale. You can keep your mind on the beautiful present.

Ostbach at Kirchlengern

Sure enough, as we walked along the water turned placid and deep. This was the home of coots and geese. The banks were overgrown with wildflowers. I recognize very few of these flowers of north Europe, so I just admire them in passing. The path faded into squelchy mud in about a kilometer,. A little before that a fallen trunk was covered with mold and moss, with a scramble cleared over it by previous walkers.

Kirschlengern, Germany

On the way back I noticed places where there were path down to the water, and benches at the edges. You could come here with a book and a bag full of berries. Or you could spend a few hours fishing. Or, like us you could just meet with friends and walk past the benches. Anything at all is pleasant on a mellow spring day like this.

Light and air

Moments of racial absurdity: “What are you, black or white?” As if I had a choice.

Namwali Serpell, in an article on Toni Morrison

The church of Saint John the Hermit in Palermo is said to be a refurbished mosque. When you see the use of light and air in the spaces within it seems hard to argue with this assessment. Light like this calls for a monochrome treatment.

Saint John of the Hermits, Palermo

Momijigari

Our trip to Japan had been planned for one purpose only: to see the leaves change colour. Japan has rather accurate predictions of when leaves will change colour, so I could fit this trip into my work travels provided we travelled only in Kansai. Then, of course, we had to start with Kyoto. A little search was enough to tell me which gardens are the most spectacular, and among them I prioritized places that we had not seen. So our first destination was Nanzen-ji. We had planned to end a spring time walk once at this temple, but I’d turned into a swamp creature in the rain that day, and called it quits after reaching the gate that you see in the featured photo. This was the starting point of our momijigari, walk under maples, on this trip.

Nanzenji, Kyoto

We passed through the gate into a land of colour. Nanzen-ji has extensive gardens and grounds, planted with maples. and they had all turned red. It was a sunny day, but with a brisk wind which made the fluffy clouds skid across the sky. Lots of people were out and taking photos of the colours. Most of them were dressed pretty warmly, so we didn’t feel too out of place in our caps and jackets.

Nanzenji, Kyoto

When you walk through Nanzen-ji today it is hard to imagine that it was built in the most turbulent period of Japanese history. The failed Mongol invasion of Japan in the 13th century CE led to the Shogunate’s direct intervention in the Imperial succession, forcing the emperor Kameyama to abdicate. He converted a villa into this temple and became a Zen monk. The structures have been destroyed many times and rebuilt. The Sanmon was rebuilt in the 17th century by Tokugawa Iyeasu to commemorate those who fell in his campaign to take Osaka Castle. There is a sub-temple, Nanzenin, now located at the site of the original imperial villa.

And then there is the Biwa canal aqueduct, built during the Meiji era. This may look incongruous in the setting, but it has been adopted by locals as a favourite spot for shoots. I could see the attraction. The immense brick structure, weathering away, gives lovely perspectives. I did a bit of ambush photography here. A lady urged us to let her take our photo in this setting, and we gladly agreed.

I spent a bit of time next to the aqueduct, trying to take photos of the glowing leaves against the mossy brick of the structure. The sun was quite far down the sky at this time, and the clouds had piled up. In the shadow of the aqueduct I began to feel a bit cold, and regretted having only a couple of onigiri for a lunch on the go. I decided I would stop at the sweet shops (chestnuts were in season) near the entrance and have a sweet and a green tea on the way out. This would not be far in the future, because the light had begun to fail when we walked on.

When we got to the next structure I ran into a more technical problem. My old camera had begun to fail, so I’d decided to use only my phone through this trip. Now, right on the first day I found that the memory card was full. I would spend the next two evenings deleting useless photos. When you work with your phone, you don’t realize how many photos you’ve taken of the same stone. So freeing up space only takes time. (Don’t you like that summary of the structure of our universe?) But right now, with the sun going down, I could not spend the time to delete too many. I took a couple of photos of the lovely dry garden we’d reached, and then put the phone away. The memory of walking through this beautiful temple as dusk rose around us is something that I will remember without photos.

There was a barrier on the way out: a simple steel boom across a road, decorated with cast metal sparrows. That called for a photo. The Family handed me her phone so I could take a close up.

Night fishing in the Pearl river

The Romans, in the height of their glory, have made fish the mistress of all their entertainments; they have had musick to usher in their Sturgeons, Lampreys, and Mullets, which they would purchase at rates rather to be wondered at than believed.

Izaak Walton in The Compleat Angler

Whenever I walk by any of the tributaries and branches of the Pearl river, I find anglers. One night as I walked by the East river in Huizhou, a tributary of the Pearl, I realized that angling has changed in the 21st century. The man you see in the photo was fishing with an LED light as lure. No matter how prepared you are, China can catch you by surprise at times. As I walked on I realized that the shore of the river was dotted with anglers at night. This was more traditional. I couldn’t see what fish they caught.


Renmin 2

Just inside the Shenwumen, the exit gate from the Forbidden City complex is a line of chairs. Ten years ago I’d posted a photo of the chairs “all full of extremely tired people who have just walked through the imperial acreage on a scorching hot day”. Six weeks ago when I reached that place again, I took a follow up photo. It was a different season, and people were much less tired.

Symbolism

These decorations looked very good on a sunny wall in a back street of Palermo. I stopped to take a photo. The Family eyed the set up and said “It must be symbolic of something.” She has a better nose for such things than me. But if it is symbolic its meaning is not something I know. I can still look at it from an aesthetic point of view. After all we tourists are adept at going to a new place, and stopping in front of beautiful things, knowing fully well that someone has spent time in making it beautiful only because it has a symbolic meaning to them.

No!

Emperor Charles V has been trying to tell people not to take photos ever since August 19, 1631, when this bronze statue by Scipio Li Volsi was installed in Piazza Bologni of Palermo. At least that’s what I thought. But apparently native Palermitans think he says “In Palermo the garbage piles up to here”.

Anachronism

A perfect subject for black and white treatment I thought when I saw this very modern microwave oven in the kitchen window of the 14th century monastery which was my temporary home in Erice. Why have only the 14th and 21st centuries vying for attention? Make it black and white: introduce a throwback to images taken in the early 20th century as well.

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