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Memories from before phones

Now, when I look back to the times before phones and our constant generation of memories, what I remember most are people. The featured photo may look like a macro of a flower, with the sun positioned just so. But to me it is the memory of a colleague and a friend, his house in Paris and in the south of France, and of his family, his wife, their children and grandchildren. Our families grew closer over the decades, as we kept visiting each other. On a holiday, I sat in the terrace behind their kitchen with my camera, helping to sort and peel vegetables for lunch, and kept an eye on the sun as it moved over the flower. It is a memory of a long, sunny, and pleasant afternoon with friends.

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This was the view outside my bedroom window for the year that I spend in a farmhouse on the Jura. Every morning I would wake up, throw back the curtains, look over the valley where Geneva nestled, to admire the view of Mont Blanc in various weathers. I recall the mornings, having a tea and a small pre-breafast at home, before driving down to the village bakery for a croissant or a pain au chocolat and then driving in to work in Geneva. This was a lovely part of the world, and a time when one was young enough to make friends instantly over a drink. I spent winters trying to learn how to ski, summers ambling over mountain trails, and on rainy days taking long drives across the mountains to find interesting restaurants or auberge tucked away in little villages on the Jura or the Alps.

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My first visit to Japan was during these years. Few people spoke English, and there were certainly no signs in English in railway stations. On the plane I read up tips on Japan in a Lonely Planet guidebook from the early 1990s. I had kept a little time outside of work, so I could see the major sights in Tokyo, and visit the Toshogu shrine in Nikko. This photo is of a gate at the entrance to the shrine. The photos I took inside now look very faded compared to those I took thirty years later. The sights were wonderful, but what I most remember is the extreme helpfulness of random strangers. At work too I made friends who are still in touch.

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My second trip to the US took me across the continent. My first stop was in rural Tennessee for a conference. I reached my hotel late in the evening and met colleagues and friends for dinner. It was only the next morning that I had a first look at the Smoky Mountains. It was a lovely place. Quite as lovely as the fall colours in Berkshire County, Massachusetts that I’d seen on my first visit a couple of years before. Over the years I visited many places of exceptional natural beauty in the USA. I keep finding more such places even now when I visit.

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In my years in Germany there were a few people who became, and remain, very close friends. One had an apartment in his old family home, and since I visited often enough, his parents also became close. Eventually it became a family friendship. In later years when my friend had gone away to a different town for work, and I visited the old town, I would go and visit his parents. One Sunday afternoon in these later years we sat with a nice rosé in their garden. My friend’s mother had baked one of her cakes, and I took this photo. It reminds me of that long northern afternoon in a town which was once a hotbed of Nazism, the flowers coming alive in the glow of the sun in the west, as I talked with people who were born in that house before the war. The world changes fast, and a lifetime is soon history.

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One of these old memories is of trying to buy phone cards (anyone remember them?) in each country you traveled through. Which one gave you more minutes per buck? This one fell out of a bag some years ago, and brought back memories of days when there were phone booths on roads, maps were printed on large sheets of paper which had ingenious folds, and cameras came with rolls of film which you had to load and remove carefully. Three of these photos come from those days. Can you spot which?

Anti-photography

To collect photographs is to collect the world.

Susan Sontag (On Photography)

When I got back from Kazakhstan with a bad back and realized that I had to travel immediately to the west coast of the US, there were some hard decisions to make. The doctor’s advise was not to lift more than five kilos. I decided that two bags of five kilos each should be okay, if I didn’t lift both at the same time. Even that relaxed limit did not allow me to carry any photographic gear or binoculars (and this is a great time for birding around the San Francisco bay). The travel office had booked me a ticket which gave me time for a bit of birding before my meeting. Some years ago I’d got myself a pair of spectacles meant for long distance vision, and that came in handy.

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A way of certifying experience, taking photographs is also a way of refusing it — by limiting experience to a search for the photogenic, by converting experience into an image, a souvenir.

Susan Sontag (On Photography)

Not long back I began to read Susan Sontag’s book called “On Photography” and thought that behind the polemics and hyperbole there might be a point to what she wrote. Since I had decided not to take my camera on this trip, I thought I might try to experience the Bay Area in a pre-photographic manner. My bucket list now lives as pins on a map with a few words about the place. Whenever I read about some place interesting I mark it with a “Want to go” pin. When I visit a place the pin either disappears or becomes a “favourite” or a “starred place”. There’s so much I’ve read about the bay area that it was dotted with pins. I decided to spend one evening dawdling in the Mission district. It was good to look at street art, walk into lively bars, and eat at a restaurant with interesting music without bothering to record it. If you are into any of these things you might want to visit.

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Recently, photography has almost become as widely practiced an amusement as sex or dancing — which means that, like every mass art form, photography is not practiced by most people as an art.

Susan Sontag (On Photography)

I did eventually did take a few photos with my phone. On the last evening after the meeting, I went with everyone for dinner to a nice Chinese eatery on a little spit of land in Emeryville. The view across the bay was calm, and the fog had lifted for the first time in the week. I took up my phone and clicked a few photos without moving from my seat. The AI assistant in my phone camera was on. Now when I look at the photos that you see here, the only ones from the trip, I find that they are completely predictable. They are exactly the kind of mindless photos which fill many people’s Instagram stories: well-known locations, photographed in much the same way as ten million others have — they could be done by a generative AI.

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WordPress AI generated this image to the prompt: Distant view of the San Francisco skyline from across the bay, without the Golden Gate bridge, against the sky at sunset.

Industrial societies turn their citizens into image junkies; it is the most irresistible form of mental pollution.

Susan Sontag (On Photography)

I posted my photos to friends and family and I got the usual messages that you expect. This was a clear indication that if I am to improve my skills, I have to give up such facile image-making. I hadn’t realized that Susan Sontag’s critique of photography, from half a century ago, could develop new meaning in today’s context. This makes it a worthwhile book for me to engage with for longer.

Visual drama

Drama? What is that? When I looked out of the window of a aircraft flying low over the Alps the contrast of the darkness of space above and the bright snow below was clearly dramatic. I think most people agree with me about that.

Beijing’s famous National Center for the Performing Arts by the French architect Paul Andreu is built for drama. Even on a smoggy morning a decade ago it looked dramatic. There’s no question about it in my mind. But I can’t speak for others, of course.

Mumbai’s trans-harbour link was inaugurated on Saturday. On Sunday we took it to meet friends for lunch near Pune. It cuts travel time dramatically, by almost a third. But coming back to Mumbai we were treated to an unusual sight: a stiff wind had blown away most of the haze around the city, so we saw Mumbai glowing in the golden hour. I’m sure this kind of view will become iconic in the coming years. First Niece thinks it looks AI generated. That probably means I captured the drama.

At the end of this year’s monsoon I was feeling the lack of outings to the Sahyadris. So when we visited the Kaas plateau right at the end of the season, the sight of raindrops on flowers meant a lot to me. Here I tried to use the flower of a Smithia hirsuta to provide a background to the droplets of water. Is it dramatic? To my eyes it is. But what do you think?

On the banks of a high lake in the Himalayas, some one had the stamina to move large rocks around and balance them in the form of tall spires. The morning’s sunlight on the lake and the dark stone cairns made a striking composition. But is it dramatic? I can’t decide.

It was certainly a dramatic sight when I pulled into a parking lot in Seattle and saw a 1967 Chevelle parked in front of me. It’s not particularly rare, but still, that beautiful classic could cost almost a hundred thousand US dollars. I took several photos, but I think this one looks the best. Have I shown the drama of seeing a car like this in a random parking lot? I’m not sure. I need your help on this.

A stingy piece of pie

While looking for something else, I came across these photos from an old walk across New York City. I recalled that the sun had just set, and the best of the daylight was done. I wanted to cross 5th Avenue and get myself a little sundowner and a snack, but I waited. The Flatiron Building was an instant hit with some of the early greats of photography. Joseph Steiglitz and Edward Steichen. Who was I to break the tradition a hundred years later? I paused and took a few photos. First the crowds. Then a couple gave me the perfect ambush photo as the man fussed with his tripod and camera.

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Tourists like them and me are drawn to this icon of a building. You already know a few stories when you see it: it was the first steel frame skyscraper in NYC, a floor went up each week, it had more than a thousand windows, it is a right angled triangle in plan, it was built without women’s toilets, it had hydraulic lifts, it was designed to withstand winds but created unpredictable gusts at street level, that critics hated it at first (“a stingy piece of pie”, “Burnham’s Folly”, and so on), but artists and foreigners loved it. Foreigners can see some things more clearly. It is now listed as one of New York’s Designated Landmarks.

The detailing of the facade caught my eye. This is a typical Chicago School building, predating the Bauhaus style towers elsewhere. The steel frame which gave it strength was spanned with clay tiles.The tiles are designed to give it what the architect, Daniel Burnham, called a Beaux Arts look. The visual differentiation between the bottom, middle, and top was supposed to give it the look of a Greek column. I’m not sure it succeeds. Today it seems to look forward to the future more than it looks back at the past.

Zig zag

Sometimes, on a quiet day, I’ll page through old photos. Looking at 2017 I saw quite a variety of urban architecture. Let me take you through it roughly in chronological order. The featured photo is from Chicago, looking along Chicago River from Eastside towards River Point Park. The river is a feat of engineering, its direction of flow having been reversed at the beginning of the 20th century CE, and its course straightened between 1928 and 1930. I took this photo in February of 2017.

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I found an interesting contrast with the ruins of the early modern palace inside Ranthambore National Park. Situated on the banks of the Raj Bagh lake, the middle-Mughal era pleasure palace is now given over to tiger watching. I don’t have the spectacular photos that you see of tigers inside this abandoned palace. The lightly engineered lake with a palace next to it was typical of the courtly architecture of pre-colonial India. I took this photo in January.

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From March of that year I have a photo of the 11th century Rajarani Temple in Bhubaneshwar. The dull yellow-red stone called Rajarani in Odiya makes this one of my favourite temples. The 18 meter tall tower has an unusual five-fold symmetry. The clusters of rounded turrets that support the central tower look quite different from the other temple spires nearby. It is said that this style resembles the temple architecture of Khajuraho.

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I would like to pair the temple with the image of the 12th century Marienkirche in Berlin which I took in November. However, there is little left of this old structure. What the photo shows is the 19th century and post-war restoration in characteristic red brick. The TV tower of Alexanderplatz looms in the background. The Family and I walked around this area on a gusty and overcast evening. The sky was a muddy brown from the city lights reflecting off it.

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Churches in the middle of cities are never more forlorn than in New York. On a grey October day I walked by the Presbyterian church on Fifth Avenue and took this photo of New York’s mid-town towers looming over it. Completed in 1875, the 85 meters high brownstone steeple was meant to dominate the architecture of the city. But its time came to an end within a couple of decades as the invention of steel scaffolding gave rise to the skyscrapers that now dwarf it.

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Glass and steel were the fancy new building materials from the end of the nineteenth century on. The new material seemed to annihilate the difference between indoor and outdoor. You see the delight that architects took in it across Europe. A friendly example of it was the San Miguel market, built in 1916. Not only did it allow in the beautiful light of June, it was also a place where you could relax and enjoy good wines and gourmet tapas. We spent more than one afternoon here.

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Before steel and glass, and concrete, took over the world, the architecture of a region would be influenced by the material available. If New York was brownstone, the Sahyadris are full of this beautiful porous rock generically called volcanic tuff. Walking about the Kaas plateau in September looking at the strange wildflowers of the region, adapted to the unhospitable thin and metal rich laterite soil, I came across this abandoned colonial era bungalow. It was built from the red tuff dug out of the plateau. The bungalow looks like it was constructed about a century ago, give or take a couple of decades, and abandoned half a century ago. The walls are perfect, and with a little work on the roof it can be easily used again.

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Let me end this tour of interesting architecture with a photo from December: the early modern fort of Mehrangarh in Jodhpur. The massive stone walls from the 15th century still show the scars from cannonballs which failed to bring them down. Standing at the base of the fort wall, you can see the wonderful palace loom over you. I was curious about the material used in the palace. It turned out that it used a mixture of granite, sandstone, and brick. A sturdy base, but with light and airy rooms which can soar up. The oldest palaces and forts of India which you can still see are about five or six centuries old, and this is among the oldest.

Around the World in 30 Days (4)

This was my second time in the US. After the Smoky mountains I took a zigzag path to Florida. I had no real plan except to take some time from work to make a pilgrimage to Cape Kennedy, to see the place from which the longest trip in human history was made. But some people I met up with suggested a trip to the Everglades. So we piled into a car and drove down to the National Park.

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A walk through the park would have been rewarding enough for me, the sight of Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides) hanging from trees was so amazing. It was still a while before the world wide web would replace reference books, so it was not till that December that I had time to sit down and figure out that this was not moss, but a flowering plant, distantly related to pineapples.

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It was possible to take a boat ride through the river. I was glad we decided to do that, because it was one of the most instructive rides I had. There were lots of turtles and alligators to be seen, and this picture of an alligator asleep with its snout resting on the back of a turtle was something that remained in my mind. I was surprised to look at the picture again and discover that my actual photo was not so good.

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It would be decades before I began bird watching. This must have been my first time out spotting birds. As the launch puttered past stately mangroves, the guide pointed out various birds. I think the photo above was of a cast of vultures. Looking at it now along with a checklist of the birds of the Everglades, I think they were turkey vultures (Cathartes aura). I didn’t remember that at all.

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This bird drying itself on a fallen mangrove does not seem to be a darter. My money is on it being a Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo), simply because it is the most common of cormorants in the Everglades. But it could be Double-crested cormorant (Phalacrocorax auritus). I can’t remember, and from this photo there is no way to tell. It would be another twenty years before I learnt to take multiple photos of every bird I saw so that I could identify it later.

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The bird in the center of this photo is a great egret (Ardea alba), a common bird found everywhere. I wouldn’t usually take a picture of it these days, but it kind of anchors this landscape well. This picture captures the impression of the Everglades that I hold in my memory: forest, swamp, birds, and rivers.

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I eventually went to Cape Kennedy but didn’t take my camera. I can’t believe how seldom I would carry my camera thirty years ago. I found that there was a shuttle launch the next day, and was sad I would miss it because I would be boarding my flight home at roughly that time. Incredibly, soon after my flight took off, the captain announced a space shuttle to port. I was next to a window, and I looked out to see the space shuttle Atlantis. It had just taken off for its mission of 15 November, 1990. For a while I could see this ball of fire flying parallel to our path, and then it veered off and was lost in the haze of the atmosphere. I couldn’t have planned a better to start the last flight of my journey around the world.

Around the world in 30 days (3)

The plane flew east over the Pacific. I slept as we passed over a quarter of the earth, and the clock turned back to yesterday. In LA I changed planes in a daze, and woke up only near dawn, to a question about coffee or tea. I can take bad coffee easier than bad tea. As I nursed a tasteless hot cup, I looked down at a very rumpled landscape cut through by rivers of clouds.

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Where were we? The seat next to me was empty, and the cabin crew had done their job and passed on. The announcement from the cockpit was my saviour. We were passing the rockies. I looked down as we flew towards the terminator, the colour changing to a bright gold as the peaks turned gradually towards the sun. This must have been the southern tip of the range; we were perhaps over north Arizona or south Utah.

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These 50 million year old mountains were not my destination this time. We flew over the north American continental divide towards the 450 million years old Appalachian mountains. I find it amazing that these mountains continue on into the Scottish hills and the Atlas mountains of Morocco. They were formed in the collision of the north American and African plates as the supercontinent of Pangaea was formed.

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My destination was Gatlinburg in Tennessee. Thirty years ago this was still a bustling tourist town. It was amazing luck that someone would actually want to have a conference in this lovely place, otherwise I would never have thought of coming here. Soon enough I had my first view of the Smoky Mountains (see featured photo). I always thought that the “smoke” that hangs over these mountains must be mist. But I read that this is at least partly caused by organic compounds exhaled by trees.

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I managed to get away from my work for long enough to go for a short walk through the mountains. Autumn is a wonderful time here. Even after seeing the deliberately planted autumn garden of Nikko in the previous week, a walk through the woods was stunning. I have a fond memory of a part of the path in which all the trees on one side had turned red but those on the other were green.

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The mountains have (had? This was thirty years ago) cut through by beautiful streams, with absolutely clear water. This was my first visit to a national park in the US. My memories of the town of Gatlinburg have faded, but not of my walk through the forest. There are so many things left to see around the world that I don’t think I will go back, but it is a memory that remains alive.

Rare mustard

The ghosts of Junes past reminded me of a walk near the beach in the Asilomar state park of California. This is a nature reserve on a lovely beach near Pacific Grove in Monterey county. My attention was caught by a straggling little plant covered in wire mesh (featured photo). That led me to the discovery that this area was a protected micro-ecology, and that this tiny plant was a rare species on which protection effort is focused.

The four-petaled flowers belong to the Menzies wallflower (Erysimum menziesii). I saw it in its typical habitat: bare beach sand over which the salt sea spray would land now and then. I was lucky to see the flowers; they usually flower earlier. I could already see the fruits; the long flat bean-like things that surround the flowers. There are a lot of seeds there, so it is not clear why it is endangered. The answer comes in two parts. Most of the seeds are unable to grow into mature plants, and therefore they are out-competed by invasive plants. The conservation effort focuses on removing trampling hazard (for example by placing wire mesh over it) and by removing invasive plants by hand.

This is an enormous human effort, and brought home to me how skewed the global conservation effort is. A few hectares of California coastline probably get more economic and human help than parts of the Amazon basin which went up in flames last year. There are structural factors at play, and we should perhaps think about that as we decide which charity to donate to.

Golden Gate Bridge

I continued with image-archeology and discovered photos of the most photographed bridge in the world. You take a risk doing this, because there is little that you can do that hasn’t been done before. And that little would probably involve something possibly illegal like flying a microlight through the suspension cables. I wasn’t going to try any of that, so I tried to leave out the bridge and capture the blue water and the early summer sunlight on a June morning eight years ago. The building that you see in the shadow of the bridge is the Lime Point lighthouse.

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That photo was taken from the north. I took a conventional full on view of the bridge from San Francisco as the fog began to roll in. At least, I thought it was conventional. Not so much, it seems. Most people today are aware of how very ordinary something like this looks, so it is more common today to seek a different viewpoint. As a result, if you search for images of the bridge on Oodles, you will find a googol images which look nothing like this. I like the idea of being superlatively ordinary!

Common birds of San Francisco bay area

While doing some archaeology with my photos, I found some of birds in the San Francisco bay area taken eight years ago. This surprised me immensely because I did not think of myself as a bird watcher in those days. Maybe it was because The Family had already started carrying binoculars and field guides to birds on our holidays that made me take these photos in backyards and walks. I took the featured photo out of a kitchen window one morning while making a tea. I think that is a Western Wood Peewee (Contopus sordidulus). I have a couple of other photos, all of the same quality, but together they seem to defy an alternative identification.

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In the same patch of ground at the same time I also spotted this small yellow and black bird. Again I have several photos, none of them very good, but all together indicating that this is perhaps the Lesser Goldfinch (Spinus psaltria). It is certainly small enough to be one, and the colour makes it unlikely that it is anything else.

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Afterwards I stood in the kitchen with my tea and photrographed this dove. I hadn’t seen anything before which looks like this. It is the Mourning Dove (Zenaida macroura). The birds I saw were all common birds, with a large range and stable population. They are of no concern to conservationists. I found them interesting then, because I knew nothing of New World birds. I have a memory of planning to identify them later. I could hardly have thought that the plan would mature almost a decade later.

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The commonest of American birds was new to me. I found now that I have several photos of the American robin (Turdus migratorius) apart from the one you see above. This has a much more faded red in the breast than the variety I’ve seen on the east coast. Perhaps that means it belongs to the subspecies propinquus, which is one of the two subspecies which one can see in this area. I suppose I spent a bit of time photographing this bird because it looked different from the robins I’d seen before.

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Identifying the bird which you can see in the photo above was not easy, although I have several photos. The reason, as ARKive says, is that the Dark-eyed Junco (Junco hyemalis) “from different areas vary quite considerably in size, colouration and behaviour”, although it is one of the commonest birds in North America. If you look through the photos in that site, you see how different they can look. Although the Wikipedia page has several photos, none of them look like this.

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I spent quite a while looking at this common starling (Sturnus vulgaris) and because I thought that I’d seen something quite similar halfway across the globe. My impression was correct. The web page of the Audubon Society says that it was brought to the Americas in the 1890s, and has since spread across this new habitat. My photos show the typical feeding behaviour of this adult male: poking at the grass repeatedly and eventually tugging its prey out of the group (photo above). I didn’t seen any flocks, though.

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Finally that little song bird that is so common that I ignored it until it sat down on garden furniture right in front of me. This is the House Wren (Troglodytes aedon), which can be found everywhere from central Canada to Tierra del Fuego. That probably makes it one of the commonest of American birds. I wasn’t really looking for birds during that trip, and it is just chance that I took these photos. As a result, I have photos of the commonest of birds in the Bay Area.

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