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Rangoli

On Diwali day in Nepal I admired the rangoli that was being created in the hotel. The colours and the style reminded me first of the rangolis I’ve seen in Bihar, due south of the Kathmandu valley. The technique of making an outline before beginning to fill the interior with coloured powders reminded me of the Diwali rangolis from Bihar. But the design seemed different. Paisley dominates the rangoli in eastern UP and Bihar, sometimes stylized into diyas, sometimes fractally elaborated with more complex patterns. But this was something else. Something niggled at the back of my mind, but I couldn’t place it.

Until I got home.

My neighbours are Tamil, and they make a kolam, a Tamil version of rangoli, outside their flat every day. The daily Kolam uses a single colour, usually white, since the tradition was to use powdered rice. The design starts with dots laid out on the ground in a square grid. Lines are drawn either surrounding the dots, or through them. The artist tries to make a symmetric pattern.

No matter which way it is done, the design inherits the symmetries of the starting grid. I’ve drawn guide lines over the last pattern to show the symmetries which a square grid of dots will give to the pattern. On the left you see the original pattern. The panel on the right shows what this pattern looks like if it is rotated by 90 or 180 degrees (top row), or reflected in a “horizontal” and “vertical” lines (middle row), or reflected in two diagonal lines (bottom row). The diyas don’t have any of these symmetries, so you can use them to see how the original pattern was rotated or reflected through imaginary lines. These were the symmetries of the rangoli which I saw being made in Nepal.

Of the nine Kolam patterns that I showed in the first panel of this post, eight have the symmetries of the square, which I’ve illustrated above. The first one is different. It has symmetries of a hexagon. I’d never seen this before. It would have been made with the starting dots laid out in a triangular grid. I wish I’d seen how it was made.

Momo in Nepal

Was the momo invented in Tibet or Nepal? Since the steamed dumpling is now ubiquitous in the hills and has conquered the plains, the answer does not matter. We had a big dinner planned for our first evening in Kathmandu, but we decided to snack on momos for a late lunch at our hotel’s restaurant. It was the perfect choice. Momos are served with what is called an achar in Nepal, and resembles what would be called a chutney in India. A word about this wonderful achar. Everywhere we went, this paste of roasted tomato with various masalas and herbs made an appearance on the table. It is a wonderful thing to dip your momo into.

BERJAYA

The momos were a delight. The thin shell made from rice flour was fluffy and the meat inside was juicy. We’d ordered a plate with meat filling and another with veggies. They were different shapes, as you can see in the photo above. Both were delicious. We were probably among the first Indians to stay at the hotel (it was rather new) and the manager as well as one of the partners came by to talk to us. The partner asked us how the food was. It was wonderful of course, and part of the proof that Nepal is the place where the momo reached perfection, no matter where it was invented.

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