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Across the middle Himalayas

Since I cannot post from the Himalayas, I have to schedule them before I travel. The mean height of the Himalayas is about 6100 meters above mean sea level. However, most towns and roads, and tracks that I walk through are below 3000 meters. Already at this height network connectivity fades; as roads wind between high mountains lone cell towers drop out of sight. Above that height the air thins and the terrain is dry. It is less than ideal for human habitation. Still, some towns and villages can be found up to about 4000 meters. There is not enough economic power here to lure network providers to place their cell towers here. Above that you see only travellers and adventurers, roughing it out like ancient 20th century people.

On a winter walk along the Singalila ridge I could see this dry grass everywhere, covered with frost in the hollows, even in the middle of the day. We walked from village to village, through tracks where we saw some other walkers from time to time. But otherwise it was just us, the open sky, the mountains and the distant calls of birds.

The geology and the ecology of the Himalayas has established itself over about 10,000,000 years. Our species is about 100,000 years old. The national borders that we see today are about 100 years old. So, instead of talking about India, Nepal, China, Bhutan, I find it easier to understand this geography in terms of the plants and animals, and the underlying geology. Geologists study a fault line called the Main Central Thrust, which lies about the middle of the east-west extent of the range. As a person interested in birds and plants, I also find it easy to think of the differences between east and west Himalayas. This changes rather abruptly around the Kali Gandaki gorge: the lowest point in the high Himalayas between Annapurna and K2. From here the Kali river flows west, and the Teesta flows east. The photo above was taken just to the west of this division, but in the middle heights, near Mani La.

Even further west, I followed the valley of the Indus northwards through Kashmir and Ladakh. This photo was taken just before we began to leave the fertile lands of the middle heights. An hour’s drive from here took us to the Zoji La pass, where we began to pass into Ladakh. All these photos were taken within a year, on multiple forays to the mountains. It has been a long time since we travelled there. After we get back to the plains and its dense connection of cheap network, I hope to show you some new photos.

A cold murky morning

Had I heard heavy rain at night while I slept? I looked out of the picture window of the hotel and realized that I had. The previous day the view had been a screen of murky white beyond the town of Munsiyari below us. Today I could see mountains beyond the town. I shrugged a jacket on over my night’s clothes, picked up the camera and walked into the balcony. Cold! To my left I could see Chaudhara peak (altitude 6510 m, featured photo). Straight ahead should be the Panchachauli massif, with its five peaks, the highest being 6904 m. This was clearly further away, because the haze got worse in that direction. If I looked hard I could see a line of mountains there (see the last photo).

BERJAYA
I’m not sure whether this rock is Augen Gneiss, but it does have two interesting varieties of lichen

Munsiyari has very special geology. It has some of the oldest rocks in the Himalayas, dating back to about 1.9 billion years ago, during the Paleoproterozoic Era. I didn’t look very hard for the characteristic eye-like bubbles in rocks (the famous Augen Gneiss), but I do wonder whether I saw it on the single walk that we squeezed in. But the place is better known as being on the boundary between the lesser and greater Himalayas. In fact, a structure called the Munsiyari thrust (part of something called the Main Central Thrust) is the remnant of an old geological event in which the Indian plate thrust under the Asian plate, and raised the greater Himalayas. The peaks that everyone comes here to see are the lower end of the greater Himalayas.

BERJAYA

The Family had joined me on the balcony. We were disappointed at our luck with the view, but something could still be salvaged out of the morning. The air had cleared enough that the smell of smoke was gone. We could go for an hour’s walk before breakfast. I began to stow water and a packet of nuts and raisins into a small backpack as The Family made two cups of tea.

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