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Trip to Cuenca: Part I

Posted on 18/11/2025 by

33 Comments

A World Heritage Site, Cuenca is one of Spain’s most memorable cities, its old centre a stage set of evocative medieval buildings, many painted in bright colours, stacked on a steep promontory at the meeting of two deep river gorges: the Río Huécar and Río Júcar.

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Narrow meandering streets separate tall houses with wooden balconies that literally jut out over the sheer cliffs. Yet, despite its age and UNESCO listing, Cuenca has somewhat ironically established itself as a centre of abstract modern art. Two of its most iconic buildings – including one of the famed casas colgadas (hanging houses) – have transformed their interiors into modern galleries. It’s a theme continued in many of the town’s hotels, museums and restaurants.

Cuenca | Tourism Madrid

How it all began

While several Roman settlements existed in the surrounding province, the site of present-day Cuenca was likely uninhabited until the arrival of the Muslims in 714. Recognising the natural defensive strength of the narrow escarpment between the Júcar and Huécar river gorges, they built a fortress called Qal’at Kūnka (Kunka castle). Under Moorish rule, the city flourished as an agricultural and textile manufacturing hub and was a significant stronghold during the Caliphate of Córdoba and subsequent taifa state.

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The city was a border plaza between Muslim and Christian lands for some time, changing hands temporarily in the late 11th century before being recaptured by the Almoravids.

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King Alfonso VIII of Castile, leading a coalition of Christian forces, began a long siege in January 1177 and successfully conquered Cuenca on September 21, 1177, after the Muslim garrison’s supplies were compromised. He granted the city a comprehensive set of laws, the Fuero, which helped organise the new Christian territory and was widely respected. Cuenca became an episcopal see in 1183, and its cathedral, one of the first Gothic cathedrals in Spain, was built with Anglo-Norman influence. The city prospered during 15th and 16th centuries due to its thriving wool and textile industries.

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The city’s fortunes began to wane in 17th century due to plague, droughts and economic crises. The decline of the textile industry was particularly sharp in 18th century when King Carlos IV restricted production to favour the Royal Tapestry Factory in Madrid. The next century brought further destruction during the Peninsular War against Napoleon’s troops and the Third Carlist War in 1874, leaving the city in a long period of stagnation.

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Cuenca remained relatively isolated until the arrival of railroads and the development of the timber industry in late 19th and early 20th centuries, which provided a moderate boost. The city suffered further damage during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) and experienced significant depopulation in the post-war period due to economic hardship.

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A slow recovery began in the latter half of 20th century, fueled by tourism and a renewed focus on culture. In 1996, the historic walled town of Cuenca was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, recognising its unique medieval architecture and the way it blends with the dramatic natural landscape of the river gorges.

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Our visit to Cuenca continues tomorrow with Part II.

Category: Europe, Travel, TripsTags: , , ,

33 Comments on “Trip to Cuenca: Part I”

  8. Cuenca is high on my list, but I’ve mostly seen pictures of the buildings on the edge of the cliffs, not the rest of the city. So it’s nice to see that its is the whole package, not just one view. Maggie

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  9. Pingback: Trip to Cuenca: Part I – Counting Days

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