Turns out that Nantes is an ideal place to spend a few days. There’s lots to do but it never feels overwhelming largely because it remains under the tourist radar.
Capital of the Loire-Atlantique department, Nantes has come under the Pays de la Loire region since 1941, but before that was part of Brittany. However, it’s clear its heart is still Breton and the street signs are Breton and French.
Arriving at the hotel mid-afternoon gave us time for a wander around the city. We wandered along the Green Line in the city centre, a coloured line painted on the pavement to link the eclectic mix of artworks that make up an outdoor exhibition of artworks and the main tourist sights.
Throughout our three days, we spotted a number of these works: the suited gentleman stepping sideways off a plinth; the wooden man in the Botanic Garden; and a stone beaver on ancient masonry.
Château des ducs de Bretagne
The following day, our first port of call, in the heart of the city’s medieval quarter, was the imposing Château des ducs de Bretagne, the city’s most important historic building, a massive 15th century fortress and ducal residence, which features 500 metres (1,640 ft) of ramparts, seven towers, and a stunning Renaissance courtyard. For those brave enough to ascend, the ramparts provide panoramic views of the city.
The first ducal castle was built in 13th century on top of the (still visible) Gallo-Roman wall of the town, where the Namnetes people settled. It was demolished in 15th century to make way for the present building which was the work of Francis II, the last Duke of an independent Brittany. He wanted to make the Château des ducs de Bretagne both a military fortress, to act as a defence against the King, and the principal residence of the ducal court.
Enhancement work was continued by Duchess Anne of Brittany, twice Queen of France through her marriages to Charles VIII and Louis XII. Her influence can be seen in the sculptural décor (dormer windows overlooking the main residence, as well as the coat of arms and loggias on the ‘Golden Crown’ tower), marked by the first signs of the Italian Renaissance.
Following the integration of Brittany into France in 1532, during 16th and 17th centuries, the Château des ducs de Bretagne became the residence of the kings of France when they visited Brittany, and later a military barracks, an arsenal, and a prison.
For three centuries, it endured countless transformations and considerable damage: fortifications, a fire in 1670, construction of the Military Saddlery for storing artillery equipment, an explosion in 1800, and so on. Listed as a historical monument in 1862, it was sold by the government to the City of Nantes in 1915 before becoming a municipal museum in 1924. During World War II, the occupying German forces built a bunker in the courtyard.
The 1990s focused on restoring the Jacobins’ Tower, the façades of the Principal Governor’s Palace and 15th century Golden Crown Tower. The Military Saddlery refurbished in 1997, was used for temporary exhibitions. In 2000, work began on restoring the white tufa façades of the main ducal residence to their full glory. These are the oldest and most impressive sections of the building, providing a visual link between the Château des ducs de Bretagne and the Loire Châteaux.
The bell tower was rebuilt and the spires replaced on the Golden Crown Tower. The interior of the ducal residence was also completely restored and redeveloped to house the museum. Following 15 years of works, during nearly three of which the Château was fully closed to the public, the site reopened in 2007.
The palace houses Nantes’ History Museum in 30 interactive rooms where major themes include the castle itself, two World Wars, and the city’s industrial past. We’re particularly impressed by the section on colonial economy and Nantes’ role in the Atlantic slave trade. The city confronts this period of its history full on, with the underground Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery on Quai de la Fosse, the only one of its kind in Europe.
I’m drawn also to the section on – big contrast here – biscuits! I, of course, knew that Nantes is the home of the beloved Petit Beurre and the LU biscuit brand, once manufactured in a flamboyant quayside factory that has since been repurposed as the Lieu Unique cultural centre.
Jardin des plantes de Nantes
From the castle, we strolled through the lush Botanic Gardens, first established in 1806 under the leadership of Jean Alexandre Hectot. It became a municipal garden in 1820 and opened to the public in 1829. Under director Jean Marie Ecorchard, it was restyled as an English park containing some 2500 species.
Unfortunately, the disastrously cold December 1879 caused extensive destruction, including the loss of 245 trees and 600 shrubs; most of the existing magnolia collection, with the exception of its oldest specimens, were lost. After more than a decade of neglect, active restoration began in the early 1890s under the leadership of Paul Marmy, who built the garden’s palm house 1895-1898 and orangery in 1899. By 1900 the garden was substantially complete in its current form.
Today the garden contains about 11,000 species planted within a web of ponds, waterways, and paths, with an artificial “mountain” and fine collection of statues, as well as pavilions, palm and greenhouses, fountains, and cascades.
Over a seafood dinner, we reflected that it had been a very enjoyable first day.
View from the Back 
