Weston Super Mare, North Somerset

I have moved back up into Somerset to the third and last of a trio of south west English sea side towns (First image 21 June 2009 and all others 8 August 2009). Weston Super Mare was a small village from Iron Age times until the arrival of the railway in 1841 and the subsequent Victorian tourist boom.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel, who I talked about in an earlier post ("Bristol Maritime History..."), lived with his family on the street shown above while he supervised the extension of his railway south from Bristol.

Weston Super Mare became so popular that Birnbeck pier was built behind the original area of holiday activity shown in the title image. Sadly the listed building that originally hosted the arrival of miners and their families on vacation to the town from South Wales, which was opened to the public in 1867, finally closed due to safety concerns in 1994.
However due to the distant position of these facilities, the trade of town centre shopkeepers was not as great as what it could be.... a second and more central pier was planned and finally opened in 1904...

A second pier closed to the public... empty pier

In more recent times (28 July 2008), it was thought that one of the English seaside "delicacies"... a bag of chips may have had something to do with an extensive fire that destroyed the historic building at the end of the pier within 2 hours. However a chip pan fire was ruled out and it was an electrical fault with similar equipment. It was said that by the time 11 fire engines and 80 firefighters arrived on the scene, the heat was so intense that they were unable to get to within 60 metres of the early morning fire.

Due to the fluctuating tides of the Bristol Channel and the levelness of the sand, the seafront and beach is extensive at a distance of about 1 mile out to sea at low tide.

At the end of an extensive promenade lawned area, Pier square connects the Grand Pier to the town centre and has in itself a small but maybe not insignificant history in the development of the town. At the birth of the tourist industry in Weston, a project was conceived to turn wild sand dunes in this area (difficult to believe when you see the beach now !!) into lawns and parkland. Opposition to this plan held out for 40 years until approval was given for the 3 miles of sea wall and promenade gardens. Originally the area was for the private use of the residents of this street but was eventually opened to the general public in 1910. The Boy and Serpent fountain from the Coalbrookdale Iron company in Shropshire was donated 3 years later by a little known or documented Thomas MacFarlane. It seems that Mr MacFarlane had an interest in promoting trade by improving the town.
2010 was another milestone in turning back the clock in trying to revive the fortunes of an ailing seaside town when the great grand daughter of Mr MacFarlane unveiled the restored fountain in the same year that the £3.9 million "GRAND PIER" . The pier was re-opened on 23rd October 2010 to 52,000 visitors.

My many visits over the previous few years were unusual in that I didn't follow the afore mentioned town planners ideals by visiting both the sea and the town centre on the same day. On this, my last occasion, I only visited both to visually document the empty pier whilst purchasing some essential shopping supplies.... only to discover something more interesting described later in the post. The High street is a fairly standard affair where the shoppers can be occasionally entertained by other means than the chain stores.

The most expensive bus stop you've ever seen

In order to revitalise the fortunes of the town centre, a piece of public art was constructed in 2006 called Silica. The 26 metre structure costing £280,000 was a source of confusion to residents as they didn't know exactly what it was meant to be.... a carrot, a spaceship. It was actually supposed to be man's harmony with the sea ... I think I'll stick with the spaceship idea and send the planners up in it !!
I only mentioned this building once to the people I knew in the area who paid their council tax to this authority, the very thought of it annoyed them as they said project was funded with public money.

2009/2010 grand pier substitute attraction.... view of the seafront construction work.

Although the town has suffered as a tourist destination along with all other British seaside resorts since the 1970's thanks to the cheap European budget holiday, business as you can see from this post is ticking over thanks to innovations that keep the place alive even if the majority seem to be local weekend or  daytrippers.

An amazing seafront attraction is the sand sculpture exhibition that seems to be open for most of the summer ...

WSM seafront

sand copy, originals in the background

Exploring the exhibition !!

Deja Vu ......   familiar ?? !

maintenance in progress... over use or trying to get comfortable

sand bound

Virtual donkey rides

2009 fish theme

err... it wasn't to be for me though

Lastly this man and all this walking and talking has tempted me to do the ultimate seaside thing of finishing off with an ice cream. Oh I've just been reminded, it's March... ahh well, the summer will soon be here.

Wells, Somerset

Wells is the one of the smallest Cathedral cities in England and is near to the village of Cheddar (previous post). It is ideal for timing to combine both places and visit them on the same day.

The name Wells originates from three wells in the historic centre dedicated to the memory of St Andrew. The example above is the one found in the market place. Although of minor importance in Roman times,  Wells became prominent in Saxon times when the King of Wessex organised the building of a church around 700 AD.

In the Middle Ages, it became a cloth making centre which decreased in importance although the market tradition carried on to this day.

Market place lamp, Wells

Doorway to market ( Penniless Porch)

It is unfortunate that in the city of the "three wells" that I only have a photographic record of one of them, so as an alternative.... I bring you the city of three doorways !!

Doorway to house

Doorway to Cathedral

Looking over the wall

Although there is evidence to suggest that parts of the cathedral date back to the 10th century, it is accepted that most of it is built in the 12th century with surrounding walls, buildings and entrances (Bishop's Eye and Penniless Porch) completing the enclosed area during the mid 15th century.

Vicar's close, Wells

Vicar's close, adjacent to the Cathedral, claims to be the oldest (late 14th century) residential street in Europe. Canon Walter de Hulle gave land for the building of homes for 13 priests. Architecturally, it is pure genius as the street is built in a tapered fashion with the width being 3 metres narrower at the top providing the optical illusion of a longer street.

On the opposite side of the Cathedral stands The Bishop's Palace which has been their home since the early 13th century.

The Gatehouse and moat built to protect it were built a little later during the 14th century...

 ... while the entrance from the market place into the Palace was built during the 15th century.

With the temptations of the market and the price of some of the more salubrious shops today, I felt that I could follow this ("shop till you drop") woman and take my seat in the ancient begging place called ....Penniless Porch !! ....

Penniless  Porch, Wells

Cheddar Gorge, Somerset

Cheddar Gorge in the Mendip hills of Somerset is made of Limestone Rock. The walls of rock can be accessed and viewed from the road that dissects it. It is probably better known for the origin of Cheddar cheese, the underground cave system and the subsequent village it has created.

The cone fairy and yellow line rules !

Cheddar Gorge is a small distance from the village of Cheddar but this place has developed as a commercial centre and is a village in its own right thanks to the tourist industry. I remember visiting the place as a child, so it was with some interest that I returned.

A few general overview pictures first before I finish off with the main attractions on offer...

Street with cave entrance in the background ...1960's !!

Old Rowlands overlooking the river, Cheddar Gorge

Derrick's Tea rooms, Cheddar. Picturesque house converted into tourist shops.

Although I don't want to sound too cynical and negative, it is possible to take your eye elsewhere by cropping your panoramic view and seeing some of the unspoilt natural beauty around that still exists.

House on the hill, Cheddar Gorge

The Gorge, Cheddar Gorge

Although I never visited the village in high summer in recent years, the first thing that struck me is the difficulty with traffic and car parking. The first time car visitor normally drives up the street looking for a car park nearer the attractions and ends up unsuccessfully in the walls of the Gorge viewing spectacular scenery while trying to remember that a car or a tourist bus is travelling behind them. It is virtually impossible to park anywhere except the main car park and as it is not on a vast scale, the local authorities seem to encourage short term parking.

The Old Cheddar Barn, Cheddar Gorge

The products of Somerset and The West country are readily on sale here and even though it is difficult to  verify authenticity, it doesn't deter the visitors, there are other business's who try to counter the problem with their own commercialism ...

Loads of the stuff ...

Cheese has been produced here since the 12th century as the adjacent caves provide the ideal environment for its maturing. Evidence suggests that ancient kings visited to purchase the cheese from Henry II to Charles I.

... and a bit more !

In the 1860's, Cheddar cheese production was standardised with modern equipment by Joseph Harding who was a local dairyman. Even though the real Cheddar cheese is meant to be made within 30 miles of the village, Harding introduced the cheese and process to Scotland and USA while later his son took it to Australia.

The Cheese was matured at cold consistent temperatures and humidity in Cheddar Caves. Larger caves were discovered by cave explorers Cox and Gough in 1837 and 1903. These intricate underground chambers are another reason to attract the tourist although it seems like more of a parallel Harry Potter theme park at times ....