Oud

Oud, also known as agarwood, is derived from the Aquilaria tree when it becomes infected with a specific type of mold. This infection triggers a defensive resin production, creating the dark, fragrant heartwood. The most prized oud comes from trees in Southeast Asian countries like Cambodia, Vietnam, and Indonesia. Extraction is typically done through steam distillation or CO2 extraction of the infected heartwood, making it one of the most expensive natural ingredients in perfumery.

Oud has a rich cultural history, deeply rooted in Middle Eastern and Asian traditions. It has been used for centuries in religious ceremonies, traditional medicine, and as a precious incense. In Islamic culture, it is highly valued and used in spiritual practices, while in traditional medicine, it is believed to have healing properties. Oud is considered a symbol of luxury and status, with some rare varieties fetching astronomical prices. Famous perfumes featuring oud include Tom Ford Oud Wood, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood, and Creed Royal Oud.

The unique scent of oud comes from a complex mixture of compounds produced when the Aquilaria tree is infected with Phialophora parasitica mold. The primary aromatic compounds include agarospirol, jinkohol-eremol, and various sesquiterpenes. These molecules create the distinctive woody, smoky, and resinous profile of oud. The molecular complexity contributes to its rich, multi-layered scent that can vary significantly depending on the specific tree and infection conditions.