Stonehenge Tunnel put on hold

Campaign group Save Stonehenge World Heritage Site (SSWHS) have won the right to challenge the outcome of a judicial review, which allowed the A303 road tunnel scheme past Stonehenge to go ahead.

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SSWHS, who oppose the government’s £2bn two-mile tunnel through the Stonehenge World Heritage Site (WHS) on the A303, who lost a legal challenge in February, has now been granted permission to appeal the decision and another hearing will take place.

Preparatory work by government-owned National Highways, had expected to begin on Salisbury Plain this month with Work on the tunnel itself expected to begin in early 2025, but will now be delayed until the legal debate is concluded.

Plans for the A303 Amesbury to Berwick Down scheme would see a 3.2km tunnel built under the Stonehenge World Heritage Site and 12.8km of dual carriageway between Amesbury and Berwick Down.

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National Highways, which had hoped to begin preparatory work on the site this month, said it was “hugely disappointed” by the court’s decision to allow the appeal.

Chris Todd, director of Save Stonehenge World Heritage Site, said that if the new hearing is successful, the Development Consent Order to build the tunnel would have to be rejected.

A date for the hearing is still to be set, but it is expected to take place before the summer.

Further Information:
Stonehenge campaigners win right to challenge judicial review – BBC News Wiltshire 21-05-24

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What Price Calanais?

News that Historic Environment Scotland are considering charging for access to the stone circle at Calanais

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Situated on the Isle of Lewis, 12 miles west of Stornoway, the Calanais Standing Stones were erected 5,000 years ago– before the sarsen circle at Stonehenge in England. One of Scotland’s best-preserved Neolithic monuments, well known as ‘Callanish’ (and other variants), however, we should be using the original Gaelic form of the name ‘Calanais’.

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The Calanais Standing Stones are an extraordinary cross-shaped setting of stones and were an important place for ritual activity for at least 2,000 years. As with other enigmatic stone circles, we scratch our heads and wonder how and why the standing stones at Calanais were erected, but our best guess is that it was a kind of astronomical observatory.

Patrick Ashmore, who excavated at Calanais in the early 1980s writes: “The most attractive explanation for the building of the stone settings in this area is that every 18.6 years, the moon skims especially low over the southern hills. It seems to dance along them, like a great god visiting the earth. Knowledge and prediction of this heavenly event gave earthly authority to those who watched the skies.

Ashmore refers to the phenomena that very 18.6 years at Calanais, when it reaches its ‘major standstill’ position in its long cycle, rising and setting to its furthest points, the setting full moon appears to skim along the distinctively shaped horizon to the south, likened to the silhouette of a woman lying-down, known locally as “Cailleach na Mointeach” or “The Old Woman of the Moors”, before disappearing and reappearing, lighting up the centre of the circle.

Ashmore adds that there is the intriguing possibility that there was once a settlement near Calanais similar to the Barhouse Neolithic settlement in the Orkney Islands (500 years before Skara Brae) close to the same date as the tall stone circle at Stennes only 250 metres away. Very similar Grooved ware pottery has been found at both sites. These settlements may have accommodated the builders of these stone circles.

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The main stone circle at Calanais, consisting of thirteen stones, is not a true circle but is symmetrical along a line running true east-west through the centre of the huge central stone. The western half of the ring is a true semi-circle but the eastern half is flattened as if the ring was facing the spring sunrise. The main ring has four stone rows radiating from it, as if the points of a compass.

The southern stone row runs nearly due south toward the natural outcrop of Cnoc an Tursa. The crooked eastern row consists of five stones, directed north of due east. The western row is straighter. A double stone row 83m long leads to the north, called ‘The Avenue’ a modern interpretation suggestive of a ceremonial procession way, narrowing at is approaches the circle. Some stones of the northern Avenue have been lost due to agriculture. The eastern row of the Avenue appears almost straight, with the majority of the stones in the west row parallel to it except for the final three stones which display a defined kink as if aligned to the 4.8m tall central stone. Inside the ring is a small chambered tomb. The site was probably abandoned about 800 BC, then colder, wetter conditions encouraged the formation of peat over the site.

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Gerald and Margaret Ponting, who spent many years investigating at Calanais, identified twelve satellite sites around the main site. Some of these date from much later than the central circle, which suggests that the complex was in use for at least several centuries.

The Advent of Tourism
Tourism to Calanias started in the 17th century and, as with many stone circles around this time, seen as a place of Heathenism and a centre of Druidic worship. Martin Martin visited the stones in 1695 and wrote an account that proved very popular. In 1743 William Stukeley, the most famous antiquarian of the time, visited the stone of Calanias and imagined the site as a Druidical circle and serpent, in much the way he envisaged the stone Avenues at Avebury. In 1819 the geologist John MacCulloch produced the first reasonably faithful description of the standing stones, seeing the setting as a rectilinear cross. MacCulloch recorded some stones from the Avenue that have disappeared since but inaccuracies have been found in his plan which is understandable when the site was covered in 1.5m (5ft) of peat at the time which had accumulated since the area inside the circle was levelled and the site gradually became covered with peat between 1000 and 500 BC.

When land owner John Matheson had the stones cleared of peat in 1857 workmen uncovered a chamber in front of the large central stone. In 1885 General Pitt Rivers, the first inspector of Ancient Monuments, visited the site and noted the height of the peat which had been etched on the stones, indicating that even the northern most stones of the Avenue were 1.2m (4ft) deep in peat at one time.

Alignments?
At the latitude of Calanais the path of the sun varies greatly from summer to winter, and here the extreme settings of the moon are even more complex. Changing over an 18.6 year period during which the moon reaches its greatest height in the southern skies.

The moon orbits the earth about 13 times a year, each lunar month (on average 29 days) sees the moonrise and moonset swing from most northerly to most southerly positions and back again. Owing to the slight tilt of the moon the difference between most northerly and most southerly positions varies regularly over this 18.6 year period. Time and place of moonset depends on the height of the horizon at any given location.

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Many modern writers have argued for precise alignments of the stone rows at Calanais to certain heavenly bodies at a specific time. However, the results of surveys by academics using highly accurate modern equipment argues against precise alignments at stone circles, stating that the circles were not laid out accurately and what alignments do exist are so few that they likely happened purely by chance.

However, it is undeniable that at Calanais accurate profiles of the horizon seen from the stones clearly demonstrate that the design of the main site incorporated a relationship between the landscape and the heavens, as noted above: when viewed from the Avenue at Calanais every 18.6 years the moon dances low over the hills to the south, sets, then gleams bright within the silhouette of the stone circle as it passes a notch in the horizon.

The Price of Conservation
Following the relatively small numbers that reached Calanais during the advent of tourism in the Victorian era, the number of visitors to the site has steadily increased since the 1970s, with visitors climbing the stones and constant footfall damaging the chamber resulting in a loss of vegetation and archaeological evidence. A stone has been re-erected at the east end of the eastern row where antiquarian accounts had shown it standing, indicating it had fallen in recent times. A small stone erected to the south-east of the main ring before 1867 where a path had been made from the south gate of the site leading to the ring has been removed as there was no evidence of it in a prehistoric setting. The path is still visible today running between the stones of the southern row.

The Calanais Standing Stones now attract some 150,000 visitors a year, a huge increase from 45,000 in 2019. This number is expected to rise to 200,000 by 2025, with a further anticipated increase due to the arrival of large cruise ships to the new £60million deep water terminal at Stornoway, which is due to open later this year.

In Orkney, the cruise ship market and changing weather patterns have put added strain on the Neolithic site of Ring of Brodgar, with erosion an ongoing issue. Erosion has also been a problem at Calanais, where the trust that runs the visitor centre is in the midst of a £6 million upgrade in anticipation of the increased demand.

Historic Environment Scotland (HES), who manage the site of the Calanais standing stones, currently provide free access with visitors only charged on entry to the visitor centre, which is run by a separate trust. But proposals have now been put forward to charge an admission fee to visit Calanais standing stones with the suggestion of a single entry fee to visit the stones and the centre.

Final proposals have yet to be published by HES and any introduction of a fee would need to win the approval of Scottish ministers. Two meetings are now being held in Lewis to discuss and develop the future arrangements for the stones.

Sian Evans, regional visitor and community manager for North Region at HES, said: “Calanais Standing Stones hold a special place in the heart of the community, showcasing the rich cultural heritage and natural beauty of the Outer Hebrides. As custodians of this important site, it is our responsibility to help ensure its sustainable management for generations to come.

“To achieve this, we are considering adjustments to access and charging arrangements. These changes aim to strike a balance between preserving the integrity of the site, supporting local business and jobs, and working closely with the community.”

HES currently charge £12.50 for visitor entry to Skara Brae.
The Ring of Brodgar and The Stones of Stenness are currently free to visit.

In comparison, Stonehenge received 1.3 million visitors in 2023 (down from pre-pandemic peak of 1.6 million in 2019) where English Heritage now charge £25 per adult for entry.

  • How much would you pay to visit Calanais? 
  • Do you think we should pay for access to stone circles or should they always be free?

 

Sources:
– Patrick Ashmore, Calanais; The Standing Stones, published 1995 by Urras nan Tursachan.
Calanais Standing Stones: Heritage chiefs consult on charging entrance fee on Scottish island By Alison Campsie, The Scotsman, 1st May 2024
Callanish Standing Stones: Proposals to charge admission fee
by Craig Williams, The Herald, 14th September 2023

*Note: The Calanais visitor centre is currently closed for redevelopment.

 

 

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News Round Up April 2024

Henge Discovered at Crowland Abbey
Archaeologists have uncovered evidence of an ancient henge near the ruins of a medieval abbey in Lincolnshire.

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Abstract:
“Excavation of a postulated early Medieval hermitage near Crowland, England, identified a site with a long and complex chronological sequence. During the Neolithic or Early Bronze Age, a monumental henge was built, among the largest so far identified in the Fens of eastern England, probably later adapted into a timber circle. After a period of apparent abandonment, the interior of the henge was reoccupied around the 7th century a.d. and, after further early Medieval phases, was transformed by the abbots of Crowland through construction of a high-status hall and chapel complex in the later 12th century a.d. While no conclusive evidence was found for an early hermitage that local tradition associates with the eremites Guthlac and Pega, Anchor Church Field offers an exceptional case study of an evolving sacred landscape in a deep-time perspective, culminating in its redevelopment by the Anglo-Norman monastery to claim legitimacy from illustrious saintly forebears.”

Full article: Duncan W. Wright & Hugh Willmott, Sacred Landscapes and Deep Time: Mobility, Memory, and Monasticism on Crowland [Open Access]
Journal of Field Archaeology,Volume 49, 2024 – Issue 4

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‘Britain’s Pompeii’: UK’s largest Bronze Age find
The discovery of 3,000-year-old settlement at Must Farm quarry in Whittlesey, Cambridgeshire, has been labelled as ‘Britain’s Pompeii’.

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The Late Bronze Age Britain settlement burnt down less than a year after it was built, excavations have a wealth of well-preserved artefacts that have been described as “an amazing time capsule” that captured an everyday moment in time. Thousands of artefacts have revealed evidence of a sophisticated level of technology, and glass beads made thousands of miles away in Iran indicate that the Bronze Age community must have had access to far-reaching trade networks.
A collection of 3,000-year-old household artefacts discovered at the Must Farm site are being transferred to the permanent care of Peterborough Museum & Art Gallery and will be on display 28 September.

>> ‘Britain’s Pompeii’ – BBC News 26 April 2024

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Woodhenge is ‘just as old’ as Stonehenge, research finds
The Neolithic timber monument ‘Woodhenge’ is just 2 miles from Stonehenge. It has six concentric ovals of standing posts, surrounded by a bank and ditch, which were built to align with the summer solstice sunrise. The site was discovered by aerial photography in 1925 and excavated in 1926–7 by Ben and Maud Cunnington, who marked the positions of the wooden posts with concrete pillars for visitors. It was originally believed that the wooden monument was built on Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire around 2,300 BC, with Stonehenge built 300 years earlier, around 2,600 BC.

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Research has revealed that the ancient monuments Woodhenge and Stonehenge were both built around the same time, not built hundreds of years apart as previously thought. Radiocarbon dating, which can be used by scientists to confidently age materials, shows the timer rings were erected around 2,600 BC, with the surrounding earthworks being completed around 150 to 200 years later.

>> Salisbury & Avaon Gazzette

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Professor Keith Ray completes 222 mile walk to Stonehenge
Professor Keith Ray arrived at Stonehenge, Wiltshire, England, on the afternoon of Sunday, April 21, completing his walk from Pembrokeshire, south-west Wales. He set off a month ago to learn the terrain by walking one of the possible routes that Neolithic peoples may have used to transport the megaliths from the Preseli Hills to Salisbury Plain.

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His route has passed north of the Brecon Beacons, through Hereford, Ross-on-Wye and the Forest of Dean, crossing the River Severn at Ashleworth. Much of the English countryside he crossed is still sparsely populated today and the lines of travel often still follow where the ancients would have walked, by going with the land and following the path of least resistance. Keith said: “We were impressed on the walk there were roads that followed an ancient path in their route.”

Professor Ray’s route never required more than a 20-degree climb and proved human transportation of the Bluestones from the Preseli Hills to Salisbury Plain was certainly achievable.

>> Salisbury Journal 24 April 2024
>> Inland route to Stonehenge from Welsh quarries is ‘logical’ – BBC News Wiltshire 21 April 2024

Keith Ray walked Offa’s Dyke
This is not Professor Ray’s first long distance walk to research ancient monuments. Between 15 March and 6 April 2023 Professor Keith Ray of Cardiff University walked the 150 mile linear earthwork of Offa’s Dyke in its entirety, not just the fifty percent coincident with the National Trail.

>> ‘Offa’s Dyke – Encounters & Explanations’

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More on a northern provenance for the Stonehenge Altar Stone
In a guest post on the Stonehenge Stone Circle New and Information website, Simon Banton writes that it has long been recognised that the Stonehenge Altar Stone is a “foreign” stone, that it is not a locally-sourced sarsen. For over a century it had been grouped with the bluestones that originate in the Preseli Hills of Pembrokeshire in south west Wales but – being a sandstone rather than a dolerite or rhyolite – its likely source was thought to be the Cosheston Beds of Old Red Sandstone near Milford Haven. The suggestion was that it had been collected along the supposed coastal route that the bluestones were assumed to have taken.

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Detailed analysis in 2020 has shown that the Altar Stone does not match the Cosheston Beds mineralogy and further study in 2023 determined it was probably not sourced from the Old Red Sandstone of the Anglo-Welsh Basin: there are only a few other possible sources of an Old Red Sandstone with such high levels of baryte cement – the West Midlands, the north of England and Orkney. An announcement is anticipated this week.

>> Stonehenge Stone Circle New and Information

But remember you read it here first:

>> The Altar Stone: A Gift from the North? Landscape & Monumentality – 31 October 2023

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STONEHENGE ALIGNMENTS

A Solar Calendar
In the 18th century antiquarian William Stukeley claimed the solstitial alignment of Stonehenge suggests that the site included some kind of calendar. In March 2022, having analysed the sarsen stones, examining their numerology and comparing them to other known calendars from this period, Timothy Darvill of Bournemouth University agreed that Stonehenge was indeed a solar calendar.

 

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A study in 2023 by by two scientists who specialize in ancient astronomy, published in the journal Antiquity (March 2023) disputes these claims rejecting Darvill’s interpretation.In the study mathematician Giulio Magli (Polytechnic of Milan) and astronomer Juan Antonio Belmonte (Institute of Astrophysics of the Canary Islands) argue that Stonehenge was not accurate enough to serve as a solar calendar.

Magli and Belmonte the alleged “Neolithic” solar-precise Stonehenge calendar is shown to be a purely modern construct whose archaeoastronomical and calendrical bases are flawed. Darvill’s claim, as occurred many times in the past, for example for the claims that Stonehenge was used to predict eclipses (Gerald Hawkins) has shown to be untenable by modern research.

>> Giulio Magli and Juan Antonio Belmonte, Archaeoastronomy and the alleged ‘Stonehenge calendar’   Antiquity, 23 March 2023,

If Stonehenge was not a solar calendar was it aligned with the moon?

Stonehenge and the Moon
Archaeoastronomer Prof Clive Ruggles from the University of Leicester said: “Stonehenge’s architectural connection to the Sun is well known, but its link with the Moon is less well understood.”

During the early phase of Stonehenge, between about 3000 and 2500BC, people were burying the cremated remains of the dead and placing offerings in the ditch and bank of the henge, and in the 56 Aubrey Holes. Many of these cremations were concentrated in the south-east of the monument, broadly aligning with the most southerly rising position of the moon.

The 56 pits of the Aubrey Holes is a peculiar number for division of a circle, which has led to suggestions that it is representative of divisions of major lunar standstill, which happens every 18.6 years. 56 being the nearest whole number to three multiples of 18.6. However, this coincidence is denied by archaeoastronomers.

English Heritage and specialists from other organisations are studying the connection between the monument and a “major lunar standstill”, which takes place once every 18.6 years, when moonrise and moonset reach their farthest apart points along the horizon, which will next occur in January 2025.

The theory is that these lunar movements might have been noticed in the early phase of Stonehenge and gone on to influence its later design.

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The four Station Stones, set in the perimeter circle, are aligned in the direction of the northernmost moonset and the southernmost moonrise; researchers have debated for years whether this was deliberate, and if so, how this was achieved and what might have been its purpose.

The team will capture these phenomena, aiming to explore the complex relationship between the landscape, stones, and the Moon over the course of the standstill ‘season’.

>> Stonehenge research explores possible Moon connection – BBC News 15 April 2024
>> Moon ‘may have influenced Stonehenge builders’– Royal Astronomical Society

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And finally the last word ……. on the Mumbles Erratic
In February 2022 Photographer Phil Holden discovered a massive glacial erratic in Limeslade Bay on the south Wales coast near The Mumbles, Swansea. The boulder, initially thought be a kind of dolerite, has caused much speculation, and proclaimed as being of immense significance to the debate about the transportation of the Stonehenge bluestones – It’s not!  The erratic was damaged as samples were crudely taken and sent for analysis.

In August 2023, following 18 months of deafening silence since the original discovery, some results for the Mumbles erratic have been received suggesting that the boulder has not come from Mynydd Preseli but from some other igneous outcrop, possibly in NW Pembrokeshire.

For the full story see the Megalithic Portal page.

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Judge Throws out Challenge to Stonehenge Tunnel

A High Court judge has thrown out the case brought by Save Stonehenge World Heritage Site (SSWHS) against the proposed £1.7bn Stonehenge Tunnel project.

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The campaign group was seeking a judicial review of the project’s development consent order stating it did not take into account  “recent developments and key new evidence” and argued its case on seven points, including that the transport secretary did not consider other “non-expressway options”, and  acted “irrationally” by failing to consider the risk of Stonehenge being delisted as a World Heritage Site (WHS).

Mr Justice Holgate said most of the allegations brought by the SSWHS were “UNARGUABLE” and that there was “NO BASIS” behind the campaign group’s attempt to achieve a judicial review.

The decision means the project will now continue without a judicial review, with archaeological work set to start at the site later this year.

Preliminary work may commence as early as this spring with the main work beginning in 2025 with the construction of a 3.2km tunnel under the Stonehenge World Heritage Site with 12.8km of dual carriageway between Amesbury and Berwick Down.

SSWHS  said they will seek to appeal the decision.

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The Secret History of Stonehenge

New Book Reveals What the Archaeologists Won’t Tell You
A new book by Maria Wheatley takes the reader on a worldwide megalithic odyssey from Stonehenge to Egypt, bringing lost civilisations to life, revealing the two types of Neolithic longskulled people and how their burial practices mirrored ancient Egypt.

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The book claims that we have been mislead by archaeologists and Stonehenge is not quite as we know it:

  • Phase 1 was a temple dedicated to a goddess of reincarnation as a celestial alignment verifies.
  • Phase 2 was not like the ionic image we know as stone settings were buried, removed or stolen.
  • The giant trilithons were a healing temple including a stone that you could sit in, one that produced water and another emitted heat.

“Dowsing shows there were more than just one avenue… This version of Stonehenge stood intact until the tall and robust (so-called giant ones) conquered the lands. They took over Stonehenge, buried the healing timber temples that once stood within the monument and changed the way in which it was used. These tall and powerful people practised cranial deformation and closed down all of the longheaded monuments.”

The Secrets of Stonehenge is available at The Avebury Experience

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Silbury Hill: An Island

Recent heavy rain has formed a moat around the base of Silbury hill in Wiltshire.

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Part of the Avebury World Heritage Site, and a Site of Special Scientific Interest, Silbury stands at 40m (131ft) tall, the largest artificial prehistoric mound in Europe.

Probably completed in around 2400 BC, Silbury is roughly contemporary with the Egyptian pyramids to which it compares in height.

Flooding at the site has occurred most recently in 2000, 2007 and 2013 and is not an usual feature of the site, it is possible a moat was intended as a permanent feature when the mound was constructed as the water table was much higher then.

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In June 2000, a large hole suddenly appeared on the top of Silbury Hill, as a result of an excavation shaft, dug in 1776, which started to collapse.

Further excavations in, 1849 and 1968 failed to find any burials in the mound leaving archaeologists no wiser to the purpose of Silbury.

There have been many theories to the purpose of the mound at Silbury but the one I find myself pulled toward is that of Lionel Sims below.

Walking through Avebury from Beckhampton Avenue, through the henge and stones and then on to the Sanctuary through West Kennet Avenue at times Silbury disappears from view altogether, then from certain points you see glimpses of the top of the mound aligned with the horizon. This intervisibility must be significant. Bring in the moon at the solstice and surely Sims was on the right track.

Dark Moon at Winter Solstice
Interpreting the external form of Silbury Hill as a dynamic lunar facsimile
when seen from the Avenues and Avebury Circle the late Lionel Sims suggested Silbury Hill was used in dark moon rituals at winter solstice designed to simulate the experience of a journey into and out of the underworld.

“Walking from Fox’s Covert at the ‘start’ of Beckhampton Avenue we see Silbury Hill as ‘rising’ waning crescent moon on the eastern horizon. Crossing the River Winterbourne we see it as the crescent moon under the horizon. We enter the Avebury Circle for a dark moon ritual at the Obelisk with its pit connections to the underworld. When walking the ‘D’ feature row counterclockwise we see setting new moon. Then to end at the Sanctuary to see new moon set on the western horizon. This eastwards procession along the Avenues is in reversedirection to the westwards march of the heavenly bodies across the sky, and as the Silbury Hill ‘moon’ scrolls through its phases before, during and after dark moon, it is in keeping with constructing the underworld as a mirror image reversal of ‘this world’.”

– Lionel Sims, University of East London
Entering, and returning from, the underworld: Reconstituting Silbury Hill by
combining a quantified landscape phenomenology with archaeoastronomy
Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute, May 2009

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The Altar Stone: A Gift from the North?

The Altar Stone Story
Lying prostrate in the centre of Stonehenge under the fallen stone (55b) of the Great Trilithon and its lintel (156) is a 5-metre long slab of six tonnes of grey–green, micaceous sandstone known as the Altar Stone (80). Debate has raged over the years whether the Altar Stone originally stood upright and was knocked down to its current position when the Great Trilithon fell or if it has always been recumbent across the axis of the monument.

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The Altar Stone lying under the fallen stones of the Great Trilithon

Most plans of Stonehenge show the Altar Stone at 90 degrees to the main solstice axis; convenient, neat and symmetrical. But this is not correct as the Altar Stone actually lies at 80 degrees across the axis. This orientation means that its long dimension points precisely to the Winter Solstice Sunrise and Summer Solstice Sunset directions.

In 1923 the British geologist Herbert Thomas suggested that the Stonehenge bluestones came from the Mynydd Preseli, in north Pembrokeshire, Wales. He also proposed that the single grey-green micaceous sandstone at Stonehenge had a strong similarity to either sandstones from the Cosheston Subgroup from the shore of Milford Haven in west Wales or from the Senni Formation, outcropping between Kidwelly and Abergavenny in south Wales.

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Milford Haven was suggested as the preferred source of the Altar Stone. This location sat well with a transport route proposed in the 1950’s by Richard Atkinson (Stonehenge, 1956) who envisaged the bluestones were brought to Stonehenge by sea, loaded into rafts at Milford Haven, sailed along the coast, then across the Bristol Channel and up the river Avon, before a final land crossing to Salisbury Plain.

However, detailed petrographic examinations of the Altar Stone and samples from Old Red Sandstone outcrops in west Wales cast doubt on the Cosheston Subgroup as a source for the Altar Stone and a source further to the east, such as the Senni Formation of the Brecon Beacons, was suggested. The implication being that if the Altar Stone was not sourced at Milford Haven then the sea route for the bluestones seemed increasingly unlikely, resulting in a totally land-based route following a natural corridor leading from west Wales and beyond the Severn estuary, the preferred option.

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The proposed land route is supported by the identification of two bluestone quarries on the northern flanks of the Mynydd Preseli, at Craig Rhos-y-felin and Carn Goedog, avoiding Milford Haven altogether, which has led to suggestions to the possibility that the Altar Stone was collected en route from the eastern section of the Senni Formation which lies on a natural routeway, the line of the modern A40 road, along the valleys which may have been significant in prehistory.

When a ‘bluestone’ is not a ‘bluestone’
The term ‘bluestone’ was used by early excavators at Stonehenge for all the ‘foreign stones’, being exotic to Salisbury Plain, as opposed to the more local sarsen stones. Therefore by definition a ‘bluestone’ is any non-local stone at Stonehenge, comprising over twenty different lithologies, including the Altar Stone.

For many this has always been an unsatisfactory categorisation and consider only the finely worked smaller stones of the inner bluestone horseshoe (oval) and the (unworked) stones of the bluestone circle (between the five sarsen trilithons and the outer sarsen ring) as the ‘true’ bluestones. But even this is a varied group containing spotted and unspotted dolerites, various rhyolites and rhyolitic tuffs.

The majority of these ‘true bluestones’ have been sourced to the Mynydd Preseli area in west Wales. Recent studies have refined the Preseli sources of some of the bluestone lithologies; at least one pillar was taken from the rhyolite source of Craig Rhos-y-Felin (the source of the main rhyolitic debitage at Stonehenge and possibly the buried stump of Stone 32d); Carn Goedog has been identified as the main source of the spotted dolerites where at least five bluestone pillars (stones 33, 37, 49, 65, 67) were taken; Garn Ddu Fach, is the source of the non-spotted dolerite Stone 62.

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The Altar Stone has frequently been referred to as an ‘anomalous bluestone’, both in its lithology and in its size and weight, an Old Red Sandstone (ORS) apparently from west Wales its source conveniently close to the site of the majority of the bluestones in the Mynydd Preseli area in west Wales some 225 km west of Stonehenge. The west Wales source of the Altar Stone has remained unchallenged for almost a century.

In 2022 a study concluded that a notable feature of the Stonehenge Altar Stone is the presence of baryte (Ba) in both the Stonehenge debitage (buried debris) and the Altar Stone (Bevins, Pearce, Ixer, Hillier, Pirrie, and Turner, 2022). These high Ba contents were in marked contrast with those from a small set of Old Red Sandstone field samples, raising the possibility that the Altar Stone may not have been sourced from the Old Red Sandstone sequences of Wales.

This raised questions over the potential source of the Altar Stone, and any possible transportation route, as there are not currently any reports of baryte-bearing sandstones in the Old Red Sandstone sequences of Wales or the Welsh Borderland.

Future Study
A recent study (Bevins, Pearce, Ixer, et al, 2023) has shown that samples from the Altar Stone yield a high Baryte (Ba) content, yet baryte-bearing sandstones in the Old Red Sandstone (ORS) sequences in Wales, the Welsh Borderland and the West Midlands and Somerset in England, the so-called Anglo-Welsh Basin, do not contain these same high levels of Ba; the geologists have therefore concluded that it is extremely unlikely that the Altar Stone was derived from the ORS of the Anglo-Welsh Basin.

No other ORS locations with comparable Ba concentrations as observed in the Altar Stone are known in outcrops of the Anglo-Welsh Basin, suggesting that this geographic area should be excluded as a possible source and look elsewhere in the search for the source of this enigmatic stone.

There is no doubt that considering the Altar Stone as a ‘bluestone’ has influenced thinking regarding the long-held view to a source in Wales. If the Altar Stone is no longer ‘classified’ as a bluestone, it is freed from the century old connection to the Mynydd Preseli-derived bluestones.

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Long Meg, Cumbria

Studies will now turn to ORS in Northern Britain. We can expect sampling from monuments containing ORS monoliths such as the remains of the megalithic tomb comprising six red sandstone orthostats known as the Calderstones in Allerton, Lancashire. Long Meg, in Cumbria, a 3.8m high monolith consisting of red sandstone, generally thought to have been cut from cliffs of the Permian Penrith Sandstone Formation bordering the River Eden close by.

Further north, in Scotland, on the west coast of Arran there are the remains of a number of Neolithic stone circles at Machrie Moor. Circles 2 and 3 are of pebbly red sandstone. Orkney contains among the finest Neolithic settlements and monuments in Britain, including the Ring of Brodgar and the Stones of Stenness, both constructed using ORS age sandstone quarried at Vestra Fiold and Staneyhill just a few kilometres from the stone circles.

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Ring of Brodgar, Orkney

They Came Bearing Gifts from the North
It is the long-distance transport of the bluestones that makes Stonehenge particularly fascinating for so many. Monoliths used in the construction of stone circles are usually sourced locally (such as the sarsens at Stonehenge); yet the Welsh bluestones represent one of the longest transport distances known from source to monument in the construction of a megalithic monument anywhere in the world. If sourced to Northern Britain then the transportation distance of the Altar Stone may well exceed this.

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The Stones of Stenness, Orkney

We now know that the Altar Stone did not come from Wales, yet, it is not known when the Altar Stone arrived at Stonehenge.

Current wisdom considers that Stonehenge was first erected in the Late Neolithic period around 3,000 BC. This initial phase of construction was followed by four further re-modelling phases (Parker Pearson, 2023), the last being in the Middle Bronze Age, around 1600 BC before the monument appears to have gone out of use. This is an immense period of time for continued development of a single monument. Perhaps we should consider this long period of continuous development against the reconstruction of a major cathedral on the sacred site of an old wooden church over a similar period time; for example St Paul’s Cathedral. However, by comparison it is significant that the cathedral was rebuilt following natural disasters, whereas we see no evidence of this at Stonehenge where the monument appears to have been remodelled by successive generations.

Lead archaeologist Mike Parker Pearson considered that the bluestones (56 in number) were erected in the set of stone holes known as the Aubrey Holes during the first construction phase, c.2,950 BC. The larger sarsen stones were then thought to have been brought to Stonehenge during construction Phase 2, at the end of the Late Neolithic, c. 2,500 BC.

If the Altar Stone was sourced from west Wales, as initially thought, we could have expected it to have arrived with the other bluestones in the first phase of construction, i.e. 2,950 BC.

However, ‘declassifying’ the Altar Stone as a bluestone releases the stone from that first phase and the date of its arrival at Salisbury Plain is yet to be determined.

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Old Red Sandstone map UK

But there may be clues in the proposed long-distance links between Stonehenge and other regions of Britain. Results from the study of Late Neolithic cattle (Bos taurus) teeth from Durrington Walls (Viner, Evans, Albarella, Parker Pearson,, 2010) suggested that cattle were brought to the site from a variety of grazing areas in different parts of Britain to the site in Wiltshire. Strontium isotope analysis provided evidence that cattle and pigs consumed during feasting at Durrington Walls were brought from western and northern areas, including Scotland.*

This long-distance connection occurred during the Stage 2 construction phase c.2,500 BC; it is possible that an Altar Stone (with a high Ba level) sourced from Northern Britain also arrived during this period, perhaps along with the cattle that hauled it, long after the arrival of the bluestones. Perhaps marking a significant occasion to celebrate the erection of the sarsens?

The next phase of the investigation for the source of the Altar Stone will further explore these long-distance connections in which the team will hope to match the distinctive lithology, mineralogy and geochemistry of the Altar Stone to Old Red Sandstone sequences across the other regions of Britain described above.

Sources:
Linking derived debitage to the Stonehenge Altar Stone using portable X-ray fluorescence analysis – Richard E. Bevins, Nick J.G. Pearce, Rob A. Ixer, Stephen Hillier, Duncan Pirrie, and Peter Turner. Mineralogical Magazine (2022), pp.1–13.

The Stonehenge Altar Stone was probably not sourced from the Old Red Sandstone of the Anglo-Welsh Basin: Time to broaden our geographic and stratigraphic horizons? – Richard E. Bevins, Nick J.G. Pearce, Rob A. Ixer, et al, Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports, Volume 51, October 2023.

Cattle mobility in prehistoric Britain: strontium isotope analysis of cattle teeth from Durrington Walls (Wiltshire, Britain) – Sarah Viner, Jane Evans, Umberto Albarella, Mike Parker Pearson, Journal of Archaeological Science, Volume 37, Issue 11, November 2010.

Mike Parker Pearson, Stonehenge: A Brief History, Bloomsbury Academic, 2023.

Note
*Previous research had assumed that samples with high strontium isotope values (over 0.714) were likely to have originated from Scotland or abroad, because values above this level appear to be extremely rare in areas of England and Wales.
However, it is now recognised that there are localised places in southwest England and Wales where strontium values also reach these levels.
Recent research from samples collected in the southwest of England has found levels of strontium over 0.714 which suggests that previous strontium isotope research should be reconsidered. For example, the livestock remains found at Durrington Walls may NOT have originated from Scotland; it may be more likely that the animals had come from the south-west of England, or possibly Wales. Clearly further research is required to clarify the origins of the livestock remains from Durrington Walls before we can be certain of prehistoric mobility.
See: Putting South-West England on the (strontium isotope) map: A possible origin for highly radiogenic 87Sr/86Sr values from southern Britain
Gundula Müldner, Delphine Frémondeau, Jane Evans, Alexis Jordan, Steven Rippon
Journal of Archaeological Science, Volume 144, August 2022
(Edited 26/12/23 – note added)

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Christopher Wren and Stonehenge

Sir Christopher Wren (FRS) was born not far from Stonehenge, on this day 390 years ago. Son of the rector of East Knoyle in Wiltshire, he was born there on 20 October 1632. By coincidence 2023 also marks the 300th anniversary of Wren’s death

Wren is remembered for building the new St Paul’s Cathedral rising from the ashes of the old Cathedral destroyed in the Great Fire of London. Wren made use of  old stones but with new techniques and ideas.

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Old St Paul’s Cathedral  (Wikipedia)

In 1660 Wren had been commissioned by King Charles II to oversee the restoration of the Cathedral of Saint Paul’s, which by the 16th century was badly deteriorating. A century earlier on 4 June 1561, the spire, one of the tallest in Europe, had caught fire probably from a lightning strike and crashed through the nave roof.

Restoration work finally began in the 1660s and soon after the cathedral was covered in wooden scaffolding. However, before the plans could be put in motion, in 1666 the Great Fire of London ripped through the city destroying much of inner London, leaving the cathedral of Old Saint Paul’s in ashes, the building completely gutted.

The axis of the old cathedral was at an angle to the main approach up Ludgate Hill. During restoration Wren had opportunity to realign the axis of his new cathedral with this approach, but instead he skewed the axis of the new construction by a further 6.5 degrees so that the line of Ludgate Hill met the west front more obliquely than before.

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By rotating his plan slightly Wren aligned the new cathedral not with true east, like many churches, but with sunrise on Easter of the year construction began. What inspired Wren to make this small change in the alignment of the new St Paul’s?

An Ancient Temple on Ludgate Hill

As we have noted above, Wren was born at East Knoyle in Wiltshire, within 15 mile of Stonehenge. As an architect it would be surprising if he had not visited the ancient megalithic temple on Salisbury Plain many times and marvelled at the construction of the sarsen lintels.

Indeed, the mighty sarsens bear witness to such visits by Wren; the southern edge of Stone 52 bears some interesting historical graffiti which reads “I WREN”. A bar across the middle of the ‘I’ is said to an abbreviation for ‘Christo’ or ‘Christopher’ and that this is evidence that Wren had carved his own name onto the stone. Stone 23 in the outer sarsen circle also has the name “WREN” carved into its west face.

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Gerald Hawkins (Stonehenge Decoded) determined that the gap between Stones 6 and 7 of the sarsen circle archway points in the direction of the midwinter sunrise when viewed from Stones 51 and 52 of the inner trilithon horseshoe. Similarly, the gap through Stones 23 and 24 (now missing) of the sarsen circle when viewed from inner trilithon stones 59 (now fallen) and 60 points toward the midsummer sunset. It is an odd coincidence that both sarsens at Stonehenge bearing “WREN” graffiti mark the exact period of the year of shortening day length; after sunset on the summer solstice (longest day), the length of daylight in the Northern Hemisphere will gradually shorten each day until the sunrise at winter solstice (shortest day) when day length will then slowly start to increase.

This line marked by the Wren graffiti, allowing for the disturbance of the stones at the N-NW sector (outer sarsen 24 missing, inner trilithon 59 fallen) is roughly parallel to the long axis of the Altar Stone at 80 degrees across the main axis of the monument, pointing precisely to the Winter Solstice Sunrise and Summer Solstice Sunset directions. Coincidence?

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And then a further coincidence is that the dome of Wren’s St Paul’s Cathedral is said to be the same diameter as the sarsen circle at Stonehenge.

St Paul’s is claimed to be positioned on the site of a Roman temple at Ludgate Hill in London dedicated to the hunter goddess Diana where a stone circle is said to have stood beforehand. The Pagan temple was destroyed in 597 AD, when the first Christian church was constructed on Ludgate Hill by the Saxon King Aethelbert of Kent.

The cathedral of the City of London, Old St Paul’s, built from 1087 to 1314, was possibly the fourth church that stood on the site on Ludgate Hill.

In 1675 when construction of the present St. Paul’s cathedral began, Wren is said to have discovered the remains of the old pagan temple in the foundations. Is it possible that by skewing the axis and constructing the dome of St Paul’s to the same dimension as the sarsen circle at Stonehenge Wren was deliberately referencing the ancient stone circle that once stood on Ludgate Hill?

Edited 08/11/23
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UNESCO against Stonehenge Tunnel

UNESCO say Stonehenge tunnel should not proceed

Unesco has advised that the World Heritage Site (WHS) of Stonehenge, Salisbury Plain, Wiltshire, is at risk of being placed on the danger list if changes are not made to the proposed tunnel scheme on the A303 trunk road that links Hampshire to Devon.

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The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) that “seeks to encourage the identification, protection and preservation of cultural and natural heritage around the world considered to be of outstanding value to humanity” has urged the UK government to make amendments to their road tunnel plan before the World Heritage Committee meets again in February 2024.

Members of The Stonehenge Alliance and Save Stonehenge World Heritage Site campaign groups took a petition to the Unesco headquarters in Paris earlier this month with 225,000 signatures from 147 countries urging the UK Government to halt plans for the “damaging” road scheme.

The government recognises that the tunnel scheme will cause some damage to the environment but insists it is needed to tackle a “long-standing traffic bottleneck” on the A303, arguing that there are a “number of benefits that weight significantly in favour of development”.

> BBC News 19 September 2023

**UPDATE 22 September 2023**

Stonehenge campaigners welcome Unesco’s calls for amendments

Unesco has said the proposals “should not proceed” without amendments such as a longer tunnel so the excavation sites for the entry and exit are no longer within the “sensitive” landscape.

John Adams, chair of the Stonehenge Alliance (SA) and a director of Save Stonehenge World Heritage Site (SSWHS) said: “Think of Canterbury Cathedral, the Lake District, the Egyptian Pyramids… the idea of building a dual carriageway and a flyover across part of those WHS seems extraordinary to me”

“It would be an international embarrassment and dishonour if the UK were to lose a second WHS under this government.”

>> BBC News 21 September 2023

 

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Stonehenge Tunnel Faces New Legal Challenge and Appeal to UNESCO

The Save Stonehenge World Heritage Site campaign (SSWHS) has launched a fresh legal challenge after the planned A303 tunnel past the ancient monument was given the greenlight by the transport secretary, Mark Harper.

The government has given its approval to the controversial £1.7bn scheme for road widening and construction of a two-mile tunnel near the ancient site by granting the development consent order (DCO) which was deemed unlawful two years ago.

Harper previously conceded in a 64 page letter that “there will be harm as a result of the development to cultural heritage and the historic environment” …. but there is a “number of benefits that weight significantly in favour of development”.

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President of the Stonehenge Alliance, Tom Holland, said that if the development was permitted to go ahead it would “permanently and irreversibly desecrate the Stonehenge landscape”.

The scheme will see the construction of a new 12.8km dual carriageway to replace the existing A303 in the Amesbury to Berwick Down section. It will include a new 3.3km tunnel that will go beneath the Stonehenge UNESCO World Heritage Site. Opponents have long protested the plan for fear of the damage it could cause to the world-renowned historic attraction and the additional pollution in the area.

SSWHS filed the claim with the High Court in late August where it argued in its Pre-Action Protocol letter that the granting of development consent was unlawful on a number of counts which the group believe was procedurally unfair for Harper not to subject the re-determination to a full public re-examination and it being irrational for Harper to not consider the fact the scheme would result in Stonehenge having its World Heritage Status removed.

Former transport secretary Grant Shapps approved the project in November 2020 in defiance of the planning inspectors’ recommendations which stipulated that the road works would cause “permanent, irreversible harm” to the site of the prehistoric monument in Wiltshire.

A challenge was launched by campaigners in 2021 resulting in the high court refusing a development consent order for the project after concerns were raised about the impact on the UNESCO World Heritage Site. The judge found the Transport secretary’s decision to approve the project was “unlawful” as there was no evidence of the impact on each individual asset at the site, while he had also failed to consider alternative schemes.

In 1986 Stonehenge and Avebury were declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites in recognition of their outstanding universal value; the A303 tunnel puts that status at serious risk with UNESCO previously raising concerns.

UNESCO’s World Heritage Centre’s report concluded that National Highways’ A303 Stonehenge tunnel plans should not proceed in their current form and require “substantial” amendments.

Campaigners will now present a petition against the construction of a road tunnel by Stonehenge to UNESCO. Leading members of The Stonehenge Alliance (TSA) and Save Stonehenge World Heritage Site (SSWHS) will take the petition to Paris.

Does World Heritage status of the most unique prehistoric site in the world mean anything to this government? Clearly when it comes to road building nothing is sacred.

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