Birding in Cuba - November, 2023 - Part 3

22 November, 2023

Las Salinas - Hondones 

One touch of nature makes the whole world kin.

William Shakespeare

     Breakfast, as always, was a fine affair, and we had more than enough to eat, with excellent coffee, that essential elixir for North Americans.

     Adding to the pleasure of our morning meal was the company of Damita and Jose, along with Elisabeth, (Ellie) the most recent member of their family, the new wife of Jose, Jr.  

     Is she not a charming and beautiful young lady?

     How happy they all are together.

     Damita was anxious to let me know, "I love her like my own daughter."

     Jose, Jr was away on a course to complete his certification as a diving instructor, but I was happy to hear that he would be arriving back home just before we would leave.

     As I was gazing over the balcony, enjoying the world going by, I observed the unusual spectacle of a man leading a boar down the street; whether he was destined to become pork chops or to oblige a lustful sow I was unable to tell, but I earnestly hope for the latter!

      The other members of our group, staying at a different house, joined us, and we boarded the bus to penetrate the Zapata Swamp at Las Salinas, to take part in what surely must rank as one of the major avian spectacles of the Western Hemisphere. Jovany, our ever reliable driver, delivered us there.

     One of the star attractions was a Reddish Egret (Egretta rufescens), that madcap dancer of the long-legged troupe of herons and egrets.

     Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus) is an exceptionally handsome bird, always appealing, teetering on those outrageous legs, and there were many probing in the lagoons.

     Wood Storks (Mycteria americana) were usually either far off or in flight, but Brian managed to capture this image.

     To choose avian "superstars" is probably a bit of a fool's game, but a case could be made for American Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber), of that I am confident. (Essential reading: The Flamingo's Smile, Stephen Jay Gould).

     It is incredible how they all face the same direction and march in unison like soldiers on a parade ground. It is a spectacle never to be forgotten.

     We saw many Roseate Spoonbills (Platalea ajaja) but most were in flight, speeding by above our heads in the direction of rich feeding grounds I presume.

     What a great shot Lorraine was able to take.

     It is not so many years ago that American White Pelicans (Pelecanus erythrothynchus) were uncommon visitors, but they have obviously found much to their liking and are now commonly seen.

     Clapper Rail (Rallus crepitans) is the consummate secretive skulker of the wetlands so we considered ourselves fortunate to have one put on a bit of a display for us.

     Such a joy!

     Lunch was taken at a little restaurant on the Bay of Pigs, where fresh fish takes on a whole new meaning.

     It was delicious!

     Contented birders were transformed into hungry diners and everyone tucked in.

     I am not quite sure why Mary Ann is grimacing, but I am confident it had nothing to do with the food.

     We repaired to our rooms, enjoyed a siesta until around 15h:00, when coffee and pleasant chit-chat was enjoyed - in Spanish and English - and then it was off to Hondones to Tania's house for new and exciting birds that have found haven in this little corner of paradise.

     Blue-headed Quail Dove (Starnoenas cyanocephala) is described in the literature as an "uncommon resident" (The Birds of Cuba (2020), or "originally common but its populations have drastically decreased (Endemic Birds of Cuba (2015); in Tania's garden it patronizes her feeders!

     It is joined there by many other species. How does this female Yellow-faced Grassquit (Tiaris olivaceus) take your fancy?

     A Northern Parula (Setophaga americana) is eagerly sought after by keen twitchers at Point Pelee and other migratory hotspots in Ontario, but is never easy to find. In Cuba it comes to backyards, never eschewing a chance to sample a little sugar water set out for hummingbirds.

     Black-throated Blue Warbler (Setophaga caerulescens) is a very common winter visitor.

     Perhaps this female was only weeks ago spending time with us back home. It's hard not to be a little wistful about that possibility.

     The undoubted marquee attraction for everyone present was the indescribably beautiful and uniquely appealing Cuban Tody (Todus multicolor).

    This little package of splendour, no bigger than a chickadee is a heart-stopper. No one remains indifferent to its charm.

     We would see it on several occasions throughout our journey through Cuba, but never was it met with anything less than wild enthusiasm and cameras immediately swung in its direction.

     As we left the house a flock of Cuban Amazons (Amazon leucocephala) came to feed; if there is a more lovely goodbye committee I have yet to discover it.

     Our final quest for the afternoon, now rapidly waning and dusk falling, was Bare-legged Owl (Margarobyas lawrencii). It took a while, but we finally found it, and left knowing without the shadow of a doubt that birding is the best occupation in the world!

     After our usual delicious dinner, Tania, Brian, Karl and I stayed to see if we could find the American Barn Owls (Tyto furcata) that we knew were roosting in the water tower adjacent to our accommodation.

     Our patience was rewarded and we had great looks at this enigmatic bird, often common yet difficult to see.

     What a great day it had been.

Birding in Cuba - November, 2023 - Part 2

 21 November, 2023

Viñales - Autopista Habana-Pinar - Soroa Orquideario - Niña Bonita Dam - Playa Larga

     The start of another fine day in Cuba.

     I had slept fitfully, but breakfast and a couple of coffees set me right in an instant. We were on the road by 06h:30, primed for some grand adventures.

     Our first stop was at the shoulder of a busy four-lane highway, with an extensive wetland off to the side. In typical Cuban fashion, or dim-witted birder fashion (take your pick), we waited for a break in the traffic and scurried across the road.

      One of the very first delights to greet us was a couple of Northern Jacanas (Jacana spinosa) gambolling, running, flapping and feeding as only jacanas can. It is such an appealing bird.

     They were on the far side of the marsh, but the doughty Lorraine, toting a camera and monopod half her weight, captured a wonderful image, reflection and all.

     Brian didn't do too badly either!

     King Rail (Rallus elegans) is an enigmatic species, difficult to see, and a bit of a Holy Grail for many birders. This is the place to see them! Often one must be content with the most fleeting glimpse; here two or three at a time promenade and pose for you. I am grateful to Brian for the following image.

     Several Little Blue Herons (Egretta caerulea) joined the breakfast party.

     The bird I most wished to find here was Yellow-breasted Crake (Laterallus flaviventer), a cryptic, tiny species (12.5 - 14 cm), rare in the extreme, virtually unknown and able to disappear into the vegetation right before your eyes.

     I had failed on previous attempts, but we were at a location where it is known to occur. 

     After an hour or so we finally struck paydirt, and it was Karl who first espied the bird scurrying along in the marsh. In fact we are pretty sure there were two.

     Once again the intrepid Lorraine came through with a picture. A remarkable accomplishment in my opinion.

     When we crossed the highway to rejoin the bus we were greeted by an Eastern Meadowlark (Sturnella magna) in full voice. 

     While this species is widespread and quite common in eastern North America, the Cuban subspecies hippocrepis is non-migratory, and genetic analysis indicates that it may warrant elevation to full species status. "Stay tuned," as Rudy Giuliani might say!

     Back on the bus Trevor had attached himself to the curtain!

     It was time to move on to the orchid garden, an extensive repository of the botanical riches of Cuba, and those of other regions.

     From a birding perspective, our target here was Giant Kingbird (Tyrannus cubensis), an endemic species not easily found - and we dipped on it! One to file away in our minds to seek elsewhere.

     There is plenty to occupy the curious naturalist, however, with botanical riches aplenty. 

     Mariana proved herself to be a proud member of the international community of tree huggers!

     The orchid garden is in a beautiful location, with spectacular views.

     I vow to pay more attention next time to the names of the plants, but all I can safely say now that this is an orchid.

     Mary Ann captured a lovely pictures of the aply named Ladies Fingernails (Neoregelia spectabilis), native to Brazil.

     Hammer Leaf Frangipani (Plumeria pudica), native to Panama and northern South America is beautiful.

     Sensitive Plant (Mimosa pudica) is native to the Caribbean but in some areas has reached pest proportions.

     I have been unable to identify this beauty at all.

     There was no shortage of refreshments available.

     As always, Andrew was ebullient and happy with his selection.

     We enjoyed a terrific lunch at the oldest coffee plantation in Cuba, now a tourist site.

     At a short distance, Tania knows of a spot where a pair of the evasive Stygian Owl (Asio stygius) is known to roost, and we lost no time in locating them.

     Time to move on to the Niña Bonita Dam where much excitement awaited us, including fabulous views of a couple of Snail Kites (Rostrhamus sociabilis), seeming to conduct a seminar on their feeding technique.

     Their diet consists almost exclusively of snails in the genus Pomacea. The birds feed by flying slowly above the surface of the water and when a snail is sighted it is deftly plucked from the water in the bird's feet and transferred to the bill in flight. It is then carried to a favourite perch to extract the snail from the shell using their specialized beak.

     We still had quite a way to go to make it to Playa Larga before nightfall and we pressed on, stopping only to break the journey and to take care of nature's needs, where one of the delightful species we saw was Cuban Grassquit (Phonipara canora).

     Its close cousin, Yellow-faced Grassquit (Tiaris olivaceus) was not shy, and revealed itself on several occasions.

     Upon arrival at Playa Larga I was excited to see Jose and Damita again, two of the most convivial hosts you might ever wish to spend time with.

     Damita presented me the gift of a bottle of fine French Bordeaux (where she obtained it I will never know) and we settled in for a scrumptious dinner of lobster, chicken, pizza, yucca, rice, avocado, salads and dessert.

     It was good to be back. It was good to be home!

TRIVIA

     I am presently reading (re-reading actually) the classic The Natural History of Selborne by Gilbert White.

     I recently found this old edition at a thrift shop and was glad to have my own copy. It struck me as a great counterpoint to my recent visit to Cuba (twice this year, in fact); the life of an English country clergyman reporting on nature almost exclusively from his own parish, yet contributing in great measure to the knowledge of the day.

     Not for him the convenience of modern aircraft; not even a field guide, no good optics, no camera to record anything. He completed his work mostly on foot, occasionally on horseback.

     Yet his insights were keen, laser sharp, verifiable and often new to science.

     In many passages the accounts have a touch of whimsy about them, and I am especially drawn to this jewel, "My musical friend, at whose house I am now visiting, has tried all the owls that are near neighbours with a pitch pipe, set at concert-pitch, and finds they all hoot in B-flat. He will examine the nightingales next spring."

     The pleasure of this work is enhanced by the sensitive introduction by Richard Mabey, one of England's most able naturalists, and a master of lyrical prose, supported by a vast knowledge of both biology and history.

     It is hyperbolic to make the claim that this should be essential reading, but I am not reticent to do so. If you have not read it, you owe it to yourself to rectify that omission.

     And while speaking of Richard Mabey, be sure to get a copy of Whistling in the Dark: A Pursuit of the Nightingale. It is written with exquisite delicacy and I vow that you will never look at nature writing quite the same way again.