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Like many people, my wife, Laura, and I live far from family, so this time of year, we’re always reminded that you have to find family wherever you land. Well, we have landed; this is our thirty-sixth year in Minnesota. Over the years we’ve been lucky to be invited for Thanksgiving dinner by friends with a large and warm family, some of whom travel in from all over the state (and nation!) for the annual get-together. And it’s a potluck, so no surprise, I always got the request for bread and a traditional Thanksgiving stuffing. That stuffing, although it doesn’t appear in any of my books, became my most requested recipe from friends. Back in 2009, I published it here on my website, and I thought I’d reprise it, because I recently made it for my mom, who is a lifelong dyed-in-the-wool roasted-in-the-bird stuffing believer. Well, she loved the oven-baked stuffing. One key to creating rich flavor without a bird is to use your poultry broth without skimming the fat. The second revelation was (and this is sacrilege for me): you don’t have to use homemade bread. At my mom’s place, I used a mix of ordinary white and whole wheat sandwich bread from the supermarket. Not artisan bread at all. The forward flavors are poultry broth, herbs, and egg (stuffing is really a kind of eggy bread pudding), so it turns out that the bread really plays second fiddle here.
That said, I usually do make stuffing from homemade loaves like in the picture above, with the crusts left on for flavor and texture. The Peasant Bread from my first book is a great choice. The white-flour Master Recipe works, but I usually swap in 1 cup of whole-grain rye and decrease the white flour by 1 cup. If you want something lighter, decrease the rye-swap to 1/2 cup (whole wheat flour works the same way). Oruse challah(you don’t have to make it in a crockpot like on that link). My go-to poultry broth recipe is from The Joy of Cooking, but any traditional broth recipe will work.
Readers have been asking me about using einkorn flour in my Master Recipe, and since it’s basically winter in Minnesota (see Halloween picture below), it’s time to bake.
Einkorn is a variety of wheat that’s been available in the U.S. for a while. Its flour makes a delicious loaf, and some of you have told me here on the site that einkorn bread is easier to digest than other breads. I can’t make any medical claims about this because there’s no reliable data. To be clear: if you have celiac disease or otherwise can’t eat gluten, you can’t eat einkorn either, because einkorn is wheat, and wheat contains gluten. It has less gluten than standard wheat flour, and that may account for why some people prefer it. For the same reason, it yields “weaker” (less stretchy, and softer) dough, has a little less rise, and spreads more (in free-form loaves). But I can vouch for this: it makes delicious bread.
I wondered if I could store dough made from einkorn, and whether it would work in my high-moisture method, with adequate dough-strength. Short answer: yes, and I was able to use the same 75% hydration as I use in my Master Recipe. The basic formula is: 24 ounces of water by weight, 32 ounces flour by weight, or 750 grams water/1,000 grams flour. But because the gluten is lower, the rise was less exuberant, the resting loaf spread sideways, and the result was denser than what I get with white all-purpose flour. That said, it makes a delicious loaf with an attractive yellow-brown crumb. I’d strongly recommend that you measure flour and water by weight for this recipe rather than using cup-measures. Measurement by volume introduces the possibility for errors that will be particularly problematic for einkorn doughs, which can be heavy if you’re off on the water.
Because it was the only brand I could find in supermarkets near me, I tested with the Jovial All-Purpose Einkorn flour product. It’s not entirely white flour; there’s a little of the bran and germ left in. I didn’t test with Jovial’s whole grain einkorn flour.
I used the same hydration as I always do–the dough looked about as wet as my usual dough from the standard Master Recipe when einkorn was simply swapped in for regular all-purpose (by weight). Note that if you use a different brand of einkorn, the water requirement may change.
Ingredients
24 ounces, or 750 grams lukewarm water(you can use cold water, but it will take the dough longer to rise. Don’t use hot water, which can kill yeast). I know that the ounces and grams aren’t identical quantities, but they both represent 75% hydration–it’s the weighed ratio of water to flour that matters. The yeast and salt don’t need to appreciably change for the metric version. The metric recipe makes a little more dough (6 ounces more).
1 tablespoon granulated yeast( any type, including instant, quick, rapid rise, bread machine, or active dry)
1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons Morton Kosher Salt(adjust to suit your taste; more information here)
32 ounces, or 1,000 grams by weight, all-purpose einkorn flour
Mixing the dough:
In a 5- or 6-quart bowl, pot, or lidded dough bucket (the lid is sold separately), dump in the water, and add the yeast and salt.
My recipes violate the old dictum that yeast shouldn’t be in contact with salty water in the absence of flour (the fear was that this would inhibit the rise). If you’re worried about this, whisk the salt into the flour instead of putting it into the water.
Stir it until all of the flour is incorporated into the dough; the result will be very moist and rough-looking.
Put the lid on the container, but do not snap it shut, which allows gas from the yeast to escape (you can put a little hole in the top of the lid so that you can close the lid and still allow the gas to escape. A pinhole will work.
Allow the dough to sit at room temperature for about 2 hours to rise (it may take longer). When you first mix the dough it will not occupy much of the container.
After the initial 2 hour rise it will look like this. (If you have decreased the yeast you will have to let it go longer than 2 hours.) DO NOT PUNCH DOWN THE DOUGH!
The dough will be flat on the top and some of the bubbles may even appear to be popping. (If you intend to refrigerate the dough after this stage it can be placed in the refrigerator even if the dough is not perfectly flat. The yeast will continue to work even in the refrigerator.) The dough can be used right after the initial 2-hour rise, but it is much easier to handle when it is chilled. It is intended for refrigeration and use over the next week, ready for you anytime (doughs made with regular flour can go for 2 weeks). For the first two days of storage, be sure to leave the lid open a crack, to allow gasses to escape. After that, you can usually snap down the lid on plastic contains without problems, because they’re usually not entirely airtight. BUT, DON’T SEAL GLASS CONTAINERS OR THEY MIGHT SHATTER. The flavor will deepen over that time, developing sourdough characteristics.
If the dough develops a hard crust, you can usually fold that into the next loaf, but it may create a hard area in the crumb. If you want to prevent this, scrape off the crust before using. Transfer the dough into smaller containers as you deplete it to prevent the crust from forming, and close the non-airtight container after two days.
The next day when you pull the dough out of the refrigerator you will notice that it has collapsed and this is totally normal for my dough. It will never rise up again in the container.
Dust the surface of the dough with a little flour, just enough to prevent it from sticking to your hands when you reach in to pull a piece out. On Day 1, this is how the einkorn dough looked:
It had adequate stretch, but I could tell that the “dough strength” wasn’t at the level of dough made with higher-gluten flours like all-purpose. It didn’t take as much force to stretch it. I decided to bake a loaf-pan bread on Day 1, then compare the results when the dough had a week’s storage.
I cut off a 1.5-pound piece of dough using kitchen shears or a knife and formed it into a ball, elongated it, and dropped it into a well-greased 9 x 4 x 4 loaf pan. Shaping wet doughs like this one’s a little different; this video shows the technique for shaping this very wet dough (more on loaf pan breads at this link). Allow the dough to rest in the pan at room temperature for 90 minutes, then place in an oven preheated to 450F, with a metal broiler tray on the bottom, which will be used to produce steam (never use a glass vessel for this or it will shatter). Pour a cup of hot water into the broiler tray before closing the oven door (if you have an older oven without tempered glass in its window, cover the glass with a towel and remove it before closing the oven door). It baked for about 50 minutes, and it looked great:
The crumb was nice, but there were small holes–this dough doesn’t have the dough strength to support large holes (OK, there’s one):
The flavor was terrific, but I wanted to see if the flavor would deepen or if the hole structure might improve with a week’s storage. So seven days later, I followed the shaping and baking directions for the Master Recipe (click for the link). Here’s how it looked through the process. First, I noticed that the dough was a bit weaker than a week before–note the hole developing as I stretched a piece to cut off:
It shaped fine as a boule (ball-shaped loaf) to sit for a 90 minute rest on parchment paper (you can place it on a cornmeal-covered pizza peel instead). I preheated the oven, with a baking stone near the middle of the oven, to 450F, for the last 45 minutes of the rest time.
I’ve been covering the resting dough with the plastic bowl from a salad spinner. This really helps in dry environments (like cold weather when heating systems dry the air):
During the rest period, the loaf spread sideways more than it rose upward, but the key was expansion, yielding an open crumb structure even though there wasn’t much vertical rise. This turned out to be a semi-flat bread, about 2 inches tall when baked…
After sprinkling with flour, I gave it three slashes with a bread knife. Cut with the blade perpendicular to the surface for wet-dough loaves like this one (or any of my recipes)…
Get under the parchment with a pizza peel or a board…
… and slide the loaf, parchment and all, onto the hot baking stone.
Pour a cup of hot water into the broiler tray(same caution as above if your oven’s door doesn’t have tempered glass)
This baked up nicely, with some imperfections in the final crumb result (a bit dense in places). I wouldn’t store this dough for longer than 7 days.
The verdict? The bread’s delicious, and that’s the main thing. I don’t think I’d choose einkorn for a lofty, high, freeform bread, but for loaf-pan breads, flatbreads and pizzas–fantastic.
Minnesota is in a heat wave, so I can’t say that I’m itching to fire up the oven and bake fresh buns for hot dogs or bratwurst. It’s a cinch to do it on the same grill that you use for your hot dogs or bratwurst, and this video shows you how. Use any lean dough my books, like The New Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day. Click for a recipe here. If anything in the video’s unclear, just visit back and post a question into the “Comments” field. There might be–some wacky highjinks in this old video. And more on shaping hot dog buns at this post, click here.
One word of caution: I can’t vouch for the durability of baking stones placed on a gas grill. I haven’t had any trouble with my half-inch thick stone but the thin ones tend to crack. My guess is that if you call any stone manufacturer, they will tell you not to do this. None of them warrant stones against cracking (one company did in the past, but they’ve withdrawn that).
Click here if you’d like to see the list of past postings on summer grill-breads…
In all my books, I call this fast and delicious flatbread “naan,” which is a specialty from India, but truth be told, it isn’t really naan, because the authentic article is made in a massive ceramic oven (“tandoor”), and the flatbreads are slapped onto the sides of its huge bowl-shaped surface and cooked over charcoal. My version is from page 260 of “The New Artisan Bread in Five … .” For those of us who don’t have a tandoor at home, we can still make chewy, fragrant flatbreads in a skillet, right on the stovetop. I’ve done it on gas, electric, and induction stovetops, but I’m going to put in a brief plug for induction, because I recently got one, and I’m in love with it. It’s instant-on, rapidly responsive, and very, very stingy with energy and carbon emissions. This is part of the electric transition that is probably in all our futures and that my family has started trying to make. Induction is nothing like traditional radiant electric stovetops — it’s actually better than gas, by a lot, despite persuasive advertising from the gas industry, since the 1930s which brought us the wacky expression, “Now you’re cookin’ with gas!” I was a gas diehard … until I tried induction at a friend’s house. Melissa Clark had a great article on this last year if you’re interested in learning more. But this bread, which doesn’t care what kind of stovetop you use, is fast and delicious, and stovetop cooking doesn’t heat up your kitchen like an oven, so it’s a great choice for the upcoming warm weather (someday soon, fingers crossed, even here in Minnesota). Read on …
They say that everyone’s Irish on St. Patrick’s Day, and I hope that’s true, because I loved my trip to Ireland—the music, the literature, the Guinness Stout, and yes, the food. It’s been many years since I was in Ireland, but I remember swooning over the fresh, wild salmon, buttered potatoes (of course), and the moist and flavorful brown bread. But brown bread’s not particularly festive (or green!), and I don’t have a recipe for classic Irish soda bread, which is made without yeast (for that, I rely on James Beard’s recipe in Beard on Bread—the first bread I ever made). But there is a broccoli & cheddar bun recipe in Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day. Turns out four-leaf clovers aren’t especially Irish, but they’re very lucky! Sprinkled with cheese, these cheddar buns make a lovely and healthy accompaniment to corned beef and cabbage. One little disclosure—the broccoli doesn’t make it all that deeply green, as you can see. Some would have used green food coloring, I suppose. Bain taitneamh as do bhéil! Hearty appetite (I think). (more…)
In all of my books, you’ll find a bagel recipe made the traditional way, by forming the ring and then submerging it into a brief boiling-water bath before baking–but I don’t do that anymore. I did this every Sunday morning for years, and had lovely family brunches, reading the paper, drinking coffee, and munching on bagels. Growing up, this was an outer-borough New York City ritual (with store-bought bagels). The traditional bagel-making method was captured in this short film, which is archived at the Brooklyn Public Library (and really captures the 1970s vibe!). Just below the video, click on (…more) for instructions on how to skip the boil if you’re feeling lazy like me…:
This is the New York-style rye bread that got me interested in baking bread when I left New York for Minneapolis in 1987. It continues to be very hard to find–pretty much anywhere in the US. Why? It’s too complicated (and for commercial bakeries, expensive) to create the rye sour that defines the taste of this loaf. And while two of my books include a true sourdough recipe that you can make from rye (see this link if you want to go that route), in general, I simply let a batch of part-rye dough age long enough for the sourdough flavor to develop right in the batch itself. Seven days is perfect but you can use it for up to fourteen with a dough this wet (stored dough is the basis of this method). All rye breads need some wheat flour in order to properly rise, because rye is low in air-trapping gluten, so the real question comes down to the ratio of rye to white all-purpose flour.
You can play with this recipe just by starting with the Master Recipe for a white country loaf that I put up on the site last week. All you need to do is swap in rye flour for some of the white. Swapping a cup of rye flour (4 1/4 ounce / 120 grams) is about right, though sometimes I prefer a little less–half that. Really, no other changes are needed, except for adding 1.5 tablespoons of caraway seeds (if you like them–to me, it’s not rye bread without them). If you go for a full cup of rye you may need a little more water–2 to 4 tablespoons. Shape ovals as in this video:
To clarify a couple of things from the video: I said to turn and shape the loaf pulling around on three sides– I meant “on four sides;” turn the loaf in quadrants and pull the top around to the bottom to create a “cloak.” And of course, rest the loaf on on cornmeal or parchment, not on the board where you shaped it or you’d have to lift the fully proofed loaf, which isn’t a good idea.
Let the dough rest after shaping for 60 to 90 minutes, preheating a baking stone to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C) in the last 40 minutes of that time, with a metal broiler tray on any other shelf that won’t interfere with rising bread (do not use glass for this purpose or it will shatter). Using a pastry brush, paint the loaf with water or cornstarch wash and sprinkle with additional caraway seeds.
Slash at least 1/2-inch deep with a serrated bread knife, making perpendicular, not angled cuts, as in the video. Slide loaf onto the baking stone and pour 1 cup of hot water into the broiler tray and close the oven door. Bake for about 30 minutes or until golden brown.
It’s the dead of winter here in Minnesota, and everyone I know is baking again–so it’s time to review the basic recipe from my BreadIn5 books. Back when the cookbooks first came out (2007!), authors didn’t generally put their most important recipe out on a website for free.
I took a different approach.
You can really teach people a new method, and communicate with them in near real-time (about problems they’re having with recipes). That means using this technology to let people sample the method, and comment back. So this is one of my sites most popular posts, and it contains the most important method that really made these books a success–the stored-dough recipe for a round European-style loaf, that tastes better the longer you let the dough age in the fridge (to a point–up to 14 days with this dough, in this post!). Here’s the recipe, from The New Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day.
If you have whole wheat brioche dough or other enriched dough (see below) in the fridge; and you want something sweet that isn’t a lot of work, this is the recipe for you. See below for links to other enriched dough recipes here on the website that also work beautifully, but this one gives some whole grains. You’ll also need almond paste, goat cheese, and pistachios. If you’re not a goat cheese fan, swap in cream cheese, lemon curd, or orange curd.
Panettone is a traditional Christmas bread sold all over Italy during the holidays and now, the world. It has a great origin story (which might be true!). A young nobleman by the name of Ughetto Atellani fell in love with the daughter of a poor baker named Toni. In order to impress her, Ughetto disguised himself as a pastry chef’s apprentice in her father’s bakery. He creates a tall fruit studded bread to present to her father, calling it “Pan de Toni.” The bread, rich with eggs and butter, sweet with honey, scented with vanilla and lemon zest, with the finishing touch of dried and candied fruits was a success in the bakery and wins the admiration of the lady and the father’s respect. The baker blesses the marriage and Ughetto marries the daughter.
Today this sweet loaf is no longer just for Christmas, appearing at other holidays throughout the year and served sliced and toasted for brunch and as a dessert with a selection of cheeses and sweet wines. The traditional method for making panettone was done over the course of several days, and included long sessions of kneading and allowed for up to 20 hours of rise time in order to create a flavor that is both sweet, but also has a complexity caused by the fermentation of the dough. In today’s recipe, you can get these great flavors without having to labor over it quite so much. Although you can bake the bread after only a few hours of refrigeration, if you let it sit for 24 hours it’ll develop its full flavor and will be easier to work with.
Formed in 2009, the Archive Team (not to be confused with the archive.org Archive-It Team) is a rogue archivist collective dedicated to saving copies of rapidly dying or deleted websites for the sake of history and digital heritage. The group is 100% composed of volunteers and interested parties, and has expanded into a large amount of related projects for saving online and digital history.
