15 February, 2023
La Boca de Gramá - Criadero de Cocodrilos - Los Carboneros - Pálpite - Los Hondones, "Rocio's Garden - Los Sábalos
It is pretty satisfying that when standing around just waiting to board the bus, one is treated to a vibrant stand of Firebush (Hamelia patens).
Mere moments before this picture was taken a Cuban Emerald (Riccordia ricordii) had been diligently probing for nectar.
A Common Ground Dove (Columbina passerina) puttered around almost at our feet.
We stopped for a short time in an area of open savannah dotted with palms.
Morning Glory (family Convolvulaceae) was easily spotted adding familiarity, colour and beauty to the landscape.
An American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) scanned for rodents, mouse du jour no doubt on its mind for breakfast!
Our principal stop of the morning was at the Criadero de Cocodrilos, a much anticipated visit. Serendipitously Miriam and I had seen a TV documentary on this facility just a few weeks before our departure.
The Cuban Crocodile (Crocodylus rhombifer) is seriously endangered, primarily due to interbreeding with American Crocodile (C. acutus) and this captive breeding facility has been established to ensure the future of the endemic Cuban species.
"The range of the Cuban Crocodile was more extensive during the nineteenth century, but is now restricted to the Zapata Swamp and Isla de la Juventud." (Crocodiles and Alligators (1988)).
Just as we pulled into the parking area a truck seemed to be unloading workers, ready to start their shift.
The distinctive subspecies found in Cuba and Grand Cayman is highly arboreal and morphologically different from the form we are familiar with at home.
We were very fortunate to find a bird quite quickly and we were able to follow it for several minutes, having excellent views.
We seem to be in an era of taxonomic splitting so who can know whether this form will one day be declared a unique species?
The niceties of taxonomy do not influence the pleasure derived from seeing the bird, however.
A Northern Waterthrush (Parkesia noveborancensis) was quite indifferent to the presence of large numbers of crocodiles.
Jiovani couldn't resist hamming it up a little.
A Northern Mockingbird (Mimus polyglottos) was oblivious to his antics.
I was delighted to see a Cuban Hutia (Capromys pilorides), a mammal I am sure maintains a safe distance from the crocodilians.
A Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias) went about its business in the calm, stately manner of its kind, but let no one be fooled; there is lethal power in a strike from that rapier-like bill.
The whole area was well maintained, spotlessly clean and very agreeable.
Our waterthrush pleasure was doubled as we spotted this Louisiana Waterthrush (Parkesia motacilla) picking its way across the lily pads.
The differences between the two species are quite subtle and there was the normal discussion as to which species we had in front of us - always fun as everyone picks out the key points of ID - and even then we sometimes get it wrong!
I think that Jiovani and Selwyn had shared the same bottle of funny pills this morning.
I don't know what caused this red glow on the water, but it was real and not subject to photographic jiggery-pokery on the computer.
It was quite dramatic in any event.
A Cuban Green Woodpecker (Xiphidiopicus percussus) put on a show for us.
How pleasant it was to be slowly meandering through this beautiful centre for conservation.
A first spring male American Redstart (Setophaga ruticilla) showed off about every speck of colour he had.
A Common Gallinule (Gallinula galeata) was performing its morning toilette.
The crocodiles were impressive.
A small group of Cuban Amazons (Amazona leucocephala) was great fun to watch as they fed voraciously on the seeds of a Royal Palm (Roystonia regia).
All parrots are glamorous, entertaining and playful, marquis stars of the bird world, and one never tires of watching their antics.
A couple of Cuban Pewees (Contopus caribaeus) were positively sedate by comparison.
We were very fortunate to have a Neotropic Cormorant (Nannopterum brasilianum) perched close at hand to permit a detailed examination by everyone.
It is in the same genus as our familiar Double-crested Cormorant (Nannopterum auritus) but there are several characters unique to each species.
Our good fortune was magnified by the presence of an Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga) situated almost alongside the cormorant, to facilitate comparisons between two birds that exploit the same habitat to make a living.
So much to see, so much to learn, so much to enjoy!
A Cuban Oriole (Icterus melanopsis) is quite a dramatic bird.
Even when seen from the bottom!
This individual is feeding on Bottlebrush (Melaleuceae), a plant very familiar to us on visits to Australia.
It has been introduced around the world and inevitably in some areas becomes wild.
Judge for yourself how tranquil it was to walk in this well-designed and well-maintained park.
A juvenile Black-crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) was content to rest during the daylight hours.
The condition of some of the vintage cars was nothing less than amazing, given that some of them are sixty years old or more and have been in continuous service.
Cuban pride and ingenuity is on display.
We left the crocodile centre, well satisfied with an agreeable and educational visit, and headed off to explore interesting woodlands with karst formations - equally satisfying. Educational too!
The inactive nest of some species of Paper Wasp (genus Polistes) was interesting.
Based on Chris Alice Kratzer's exceptional book The Social Wasps of North America (2022), I believe that it is Cuban Paper Wasp (Polistes cubensis) - but I am straying far beyond my field of expertise here!
Yellow Alder (Turnera ulmifolia) is very attractive.
As best I can recall, our only Wood Stork (Mycteria americana) of the trip flew overhead.
Spiderworts (Commelinaceae) dotted the woodland.
We saw Cuban Bullfinch (Melopyrrha nigra) quite often but never without a nod of appreciation.
A Mimosa Yellow (Pyrisita nise) floated daintily among the woodland flowers.
The Pochote (Pachira quinata) tree is equipped with formidable protective armour.
Even that sylvan sprite, Selwyn, would be reluctant to climb this tree!
But don't count on it. I think on a given day he could be coaxed into trying anything!
A Cuban Tody (Todus multicolor) almost defies belief, and it never failed to garner an appreciative audience in our group.
I know that Jim has made greetings cards from one of his pictures since his return.
These karst formations were widespread in this region and were a source of great interest.
A West Indian Woodpecker (Melanerpes superciliaris) never failed to excite our imagination. I am not sure whether the bird was fond of the fruit, or insect larvae that might be in it.
Grey Catbird (Dumetella carolinensis) was always a reminder of home.
My instinct tells me that the following animals are goats, but I was taught that goats always carry their tail upright and the tail of sheep hang down.
Based on the "tail rule" they are sheep. What do you think?
After a full morning, and lunch, we headed back for a brief siesta, and then hied ourselves off to Tania's house to watch the feeders.
Her good friends (and our friends too), Chino and Jona, watch over her house and tend to the garden while she is away on tours, and make sure the birds are well fed.
They are charming, friendly intelligent people and we valued them greatly. While we sat out in the garden watching the frenzied activity there, they brought us coffee and lemonade. It's good to be spoiled once in a while!
How could you ever tire of Yellow-faced Grassquits (Tiaris olivaceus)?
The feeder you see below was made of bamboo split longitudinally and filled with rice.
I'll leave it you to judge how popular it is, but I can tell you that I have tried feeding with rice at home, and it is totally ignored. The same is true of bananas. Birds in the tropics flock to a banana and squabble over it, demolishing it in no time at all, yet I have set out bananas in my garden with no takers.
As far as I can recall, Black-throated Blue Warbler (Setophaga caerulescens) has never even visited my yard, let alone shown interest in a banana!
A Zenaida Dove (Zenaida aurita) picked its way daintily along the ground, stabbing at choice morsels as it went.
Three or four Ovenbirds (Seirus aurocapilla) provided gob-smacking, up close looks.
Just when you think it can't get much better, it does, when a pair of endemic Blue-headed Quail-Doves (Starnoenas cyanocephala) sashays into view.
These birds are avian royalty - and they know it!
Tawny-shouldered Blackbirds (Agelaius humeralis) are mere courtiers by contrast.
And perhaps to remind us that subdued elegance is never out of a place a Grey Catbird joined the throng.
A Greater Antillean Grackle (Quiscalus niger) was capable of shouldering smaller birds out of the way when it wanted to feed.
In the genus Turdus, Red-legged Thrush (Turdus plumbeus) holds the title for most handsome species in my estimation.
West Indian Woodpecker is possessed of a bill no other bird wants to mess with, and has few challengers when it comes to feeding time.
Your will surely all agree that Cuban Pewee is an appealing little bird, with a distinctive white comma behind the eye.
In addition to birds, many plants in Tania's garden evoked considerable interest and appreciation.
Skyflower (Durante erecta)
Spiral Ginger (Cheilocostus speciosus)
Unusually, we had not seen an American Redstart right up until the time we were about to leave.
Just as we swung the gate closed a noisy flock of Cuban Amazons descended into the trees to feed.
Did one ever have a better farewell? I certainly never did.
Jiovani was driving the bus carefully down seldom used forest roads, when the boughs of a tree overhanging the road caused him to come to a halt.
Not fazed for a moment, Chino and Jiovani set about to attack the offending limb with muscle power and machete.
Mariana and Jona joined in to help, and coordination and cooperation were the order of the day.
In no time at all it was "mission accomplished."
I am confident that the North Americans on the bus assisted in a substantial way by their enthusiastic encouragement from the comfort and safety of their seats.
Even wielding a machete Jiovani failed to look anything but warm and cuddly!
When we arrived at our wetland destination we were not overwhelmed with birds, but who would have wanted to miss the tree-felling excitement?
It was our last night with our convivial Zapata Swamp hosts, now like family, and Damita made a cake as you may see.
It had seemed to us throughout our journey that music is like mother's milk to Cubans, and Tania invited a little combo to make our final night an evening to remember.
Their artistry was impressive, and the lead singer (the woman) had a rich alto voice that resonated in the night air and charmed us all.
The guitarist seemed to be drawn to Barb and was perhaps playing to her alone.
Everyone danced, even I did, when Tania coaxed me onto the floor. Selwyn's skills outclass mine by a wide margin.
Victoria had to be content with Mariana as she waited for her husband to join her on the floor.
Lights played on the ceiling and twinkled and sparkled while the strains of happiness permeated the night air.
Jim wasted no time in sharing the floor with Damita and Tania - lucky man!
Our wonderful hosts, Jose and Damita, danced together; their affection for each other always on display.
Tania thought the band needed a helping hand and picked up the beat like a seasoned veteran.
It was a wonderful last evening and it had been an exceptional stay in every respect. Rarely have I been so satisfied as I was on this journey to the remote reaches of the Zapata Swamp.
To Tania and Mariana, to Jiovani, to Adonis, to Chino and Jona, to Jose, Sr and Jose, Jr - and of course to Damita - thank you from the bottom of our hearts.
Siempre serán especial para nosotros.
And there is more to come. We are not done with Cuba yet!
