Hey Lovers! February 14 Is Not Just About Chocolate
That's why every February, I dust off my trusty copy of Intercourses: An Aprhrodisac Cookbook. While flipping through this gorgeous piece of work, I invariably kick myself. This book is too good to limit it to a Valentine's Day feast. I'm declaring 2011 the year of sensual cooking. While Intercourses was written more than 14 years, it's still fresh and fun and the recipes turn out beautifully.
I recently caught up with Intercourses author Martha Hopkins and posed a few provocative questions:
So much fuss is made about chocolate on Valentine's Day, but I love savories. What's your ideal dinner for Feb. 14?
Martha: First, I'd say, it's dinner at home. The whole universe eats out on that day. All restaurant kitchens are going to be slammed and it's a ideal time to hunker down for some good home-cooked food. Now, whether it's elaborate or simple is, frankly, your call. You will likely be coming home from work, so I'm going to suggest a make-ahead dinner this year. And because it won't seem to get above freezing, even though I'm in Austin, Texas, I'm going to suggest something warm. Braised Beef Short Ribs with Black Mission Figs. Make them on Saturday, and spend Sunday drinking coffee and reading the Times.
I think I'd probably serve the short ribs with some slow-cooked grits and a glass of red wine. To start, I'd probably make a simple mustard vinaigrette and toss it with some whole leaves of butter lettuce. For dessert, I'm going to have to go with the Orange Blossom Panna Cotta, maybe with mango on top instead of peaches, since there's no peach in my grocery store I'd be willing to eat this time of year. Pour the panna cotta into martini glasses or demi-tasse—not too much—this dinner's already rich enough without adding too much dessert. Oh, and keep the wine to a minimum and serve only half the portion of what you would normally eat on those short ribs. Unless, of course, you're fine with simply falling asleep after you eat.
If you don't have time to make the short ribs, the Honeyed Duck Breast with Dried Cherries takes just minutes to prepare and makes you look like you know how to cook.
Another fun thing for Valentine's would be the Steamed Artichoke with Green Goddess Dressing. People are scared to death of fresh artichokes, when really all the have to do is cut off the stem so the artichoke will sit on a plate, and then cut off the top third. Really, you don't even have to remove the thorns or, in this case, the choke. Just put the artichoke in a glass container with a bit of water and microwave for about 7 minutes to steam, and then let sit for another 10 minutes. Make your dressing or melt some butter. Share a single artichoke as an app; serve hot, warm, room temperature, or cold. How easy is that? When you get to the choke, throw it away and save the artichoke bottom for Tuesday. Top with a bit of goat cheese and thyme, pop it under the broiler, and you have a delicious two-bite app for the next night.
Your book has achieved classic status. If you could, what would you add to update?
Funny you should ask: I was just thinking the other day, "Why didn't I include pomegranates and mussels?" These are absolute must-haves in the aphrodisiac world. Like the artichoke, pomegranates play hard to get. But goodness, there's nothing like a handful of fresh pomegranate seeds. So crunchy juicy yummy! And mussels, wow. The way they look is over-the-top sexual, but that's really nothing compared to the sweet taste of their plump flesh. (That sounds dorky, but it's true!)
I especially love that they're so high in protein and low in fat. You can make a fantastic meal just by steaming them with some diced carrot, celery, shallots, and white wine. Add an extra-toasty slice of a multi-grain boule or baguette. A glass of the same wine you used in the mussels. It's so light and good, plus it can be sensual finger food to boot. Unlike heavier dinners (even including the Valentine's meal I recommended!), your body will not need to divert all its energy and attention to digestion after a like meal like this.
Uhhhh . . . on my dinner plate or my work plate? Dinner plate: I'm all about roasted sweet potatoes. Love those things! Work plate? Art directed a photo shoot with Penny de los Santos, a fantastic photographer based in Texas who shoots for Saveur and tons of other folks. Working on a couple of non-cookbook books. Eating wayyyyyy too much dark chocolate. Compensating by drinking excessive amounts of white tea from Steven Smith's in Portland. Dating a great guy with a 1961 red caddy convertible. (Warm weather, come soon!) Just got some requests from a Rachael Ray producer. Looks like they're considering me for a segment, but who knows what'll happen there!
-- Leslie Kelly






