
In All Consuming, Ruby Tandoh examines how society has shaped what we eat. From recipes to influencers to cookbooks to trends, she considers the ways in which culture and changes in technology have brought different products and dishes to the fore.
She begins with the shift in how we discover recipes, from those passed down within the family to the viral trends on Instagram and TikTok with ‘photos and videos that seem to have been engineered to bypass rational thinking and go straight to the pleasure centres of the brain’, noting there’s no context to the images, or to the recipes themselves. The connection between cooking and our heritages removed.
Moving back in time, Tandoh discusses the Sunday supplements – ‘No medium has swerved the course of British food culture as sharply as those columns’ – which appeared at the same time supermarkets were on the rise and local grocery stores were closing down. Aspirational cooking had never been easier.
As legacy media’s influence has lessened, social media has enabled influencers to become the most powerful critics of our time. Tandoh cites Keith Lee (who I admit I had not heard of despite his more than 15 million followers), who reviews everyday food at small restaurants and is capable of keeping ailing businesses afloat. As she traces Lee’s predecessors back to Victor Hugo Green’s Green Book, Tandoh points out that we’re rarely allowed a Black food critic.
In the UK, pretty much every major restaurant critic has been white, and nearly all of them – and I need to stress this – went to private school. Several of them went to Eton. One is King Charles’ stepson.
For all its ills, social media remains somewhat of a leveller in the world of food.
However, the most interesting sections for me were the ones on cookbooks and how changes in what we buy take place. The cookbook section begins with the likes of Mrs Beeton and how household management or domestic economy has led us back to the tradwives advertising the purity of their lifestyles on the internet, before Tandoh delves into the 700 cookbooks a year published in the UK (!!!), examining whether any of them actually have an impact on the culture, including Rukmini Iyer’s ubiquitous Roasting Tin series (of which I own several), before interrogating why ‘nobody admits to throwing dinner parties anymore’, even though they clearly do. In the section on tastes, I learned about the rise of the supermarket; why almost every ice cream you can buy today was invented between 1976 and 1990, and why all these bizarrely flavoured wellness drinks have suddenly appeared.
Needless to say, this book was a genuine delight to read and an education in how our tastes are influenced by the internet, legacy media and changes in where we buy our food. Tandoh’s interest and enthusiasm is apparent in her writing and she makes for an excellent guide to the ways the world of food intersects with society, economy and culture.
My copy of All Consuming was my own purchase.


















